Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,735 total · 33/month
Shared By: Jared Brin on Apr 20, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This route is just right of Chocolate Corner. Go up a widening and sometimes awkward crack to ledge with anchors, about 70 feet. Save a few small cams for the end. I think there are upper pitches too, but I didn't do them.


Doubles of cams from green alien to #2 camalot, with maybe triples of #1 and #2 camalots
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
Please don't be a lazy bumbly and set this climb as a top rope. You will only add to the gouges over the shoulder of the ledge. Belay your second from the anchors, where you will be standing on a ledge. Apr 28, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This climb is not sustained like other 5.10- climbs in this area. This route, plus Keyhole Flake, were the only 5.10's I was able to lead on a past trip to Indian Creek. I found this climb easier than Generic Crack, even. Good climb, though! Mar 30, 2004
I also found this climb to be one of the easiest on this side of the canyon, or maybe both sides. Feb 10, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Definitely worth doing, with good jams all the way. The rock quality (lighter-color sandstone) isn't as good as neighboring routes (as evidenced by the grooves below the anchor). Nov 14, 2006
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
I thought this was a great route -- just far more varied and "weird" like a granite crack. Nov 30, 2009
Franz N
Franz N   Mass.
Climb definitely feels like a granite crack. Gritty, awkard, but a great climb to lead with a nice bouldery finish. Apr 15, 2013
Mark P Thomas
Mark P Thomas   Draper
3-4 star route anywhere else, but in the Creek, only 2 stars for me. Very well worth doing if you're in the area though! May 4, 2013
Derek Field
Derek Field   California
Awkwardly deep jamming through the crux flare, which was the only difficult part. The rest is a breeze. Feb 27, 2017
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
Reminiscent of awkward Yosemite 5.10- Apr 12, 2018