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Routes in Donnelly Canyon

5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let 'er Buck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ocean Negro T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twitterpated T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,754 total, 11/month
Shared By: Dave Gentry on Apr 21, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is in the next corner left of "The Naked and the Dead." Look for a left leaning pillar with a large chockstone near the bottom. Clearly seen in the Donnelly Canyon photo.

This is a short and super-fun route - at least until you get to the last 15 feet.

Start by squeezing into the chimney below the chockstone, then pulling up and over it. The fun commences with good gear and great stemming - one hand in the (finger) crack, the other on the leaning pillar. The pillar leans away from the wall, so the stemming gets more exciting as you climb.Once you reach the top of the pillar the real work begins. Your two smallest pieces will fit in the bulge - but, if you're not solid while liebacking on sloping tips, save one larger green Alien size for the short ramp over the bulge.The anchors are just large machine-bolts sticking out of the rock, with webbing slung over them. Not too reassuring. The current rings are aluminum rap rings - don't toprope through them (duh)!

Protection

One hand-sized piece for the chockstone, then at least two each of blue, green, yellow and red Alien sized pieces. A #3 - #4 (old style) Camalot will fit nicely in the pod below the crux.
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
 
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
 
Anchors are fine, good climb but serious in nature for ur average 10. The rock sounds super hollow before leaving the stem and entering the corner, so prob a good idea to double up in the good rock a few feet below the mid crux. A .2 is the key piece for me at the final crux. Other than that, Great climb that I don't see many people doing. Apr 2, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
As of 2011 this is in need of a new anchor. Apr 3, 2014
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10+
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10+
Mellow climbing leads to a short, stout crux. Worth doing. Nov 19, 2009
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
No, the next corner left of Naked and the Dead is Fuel Injected Hard Body. This Unnamed 5.10+ is left of FIHB.

A #3 C4 fits in the pod as well. Nov 13, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
A nice change from the typical IC splitter.Secure, well protected chimneying leads to an intriguing step across into the layback crack. A couple layback moves deliver you into a nice wide-hands crack (rest) where you can psych up for the tips layback to the chains. A green alien in the small pod right at the lip protects the crux well.

Oct 19, 2005