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Routes in Way Rambo

A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 32,875 total, 205/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Classic, perfect, splitter hands on the wall just around the corner from Way Rambo.

Protection

Camalots: 3x #2 & 3x #3
KB
Moab, UT
 
KB   Moab, UT
 
Even as a small handed human who prefers jamming #1 sized cracks, I couldn't believe how secure and enjoyable the jamming felt on this route. Loved it! The crux for me was probably the top 5 feet where it widens slightly, but you have a rest before it and bomber foot jams. Definitely a must-do, for beginner leaders especially. Dec 4, 2015
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
 
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
 
Top 10 indian creek splitters for me. Still dreaming about the hand jams. DO THIS CLIMB! It takes a #1 camalot at the beginning if you need to save the #2's Aug 13, 2014
What a great route! Beautiful to look at and to climb. I found it easier than chocolate corner, a great intro to creek climbing if you have large-ish hands. Might be more fun than supercrack, they're very similar in size but this one seems less mechanical. Apr 4, 2013
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
 
Super fun route. Wish it was longer. Solid hands for me the whole way (blues and yellows) with a nice foot hold a bit before the anchor to rest on. Great route and a really cool area. Apr 20, 2012
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.10-
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.10-
i agree with bret. in hindsight i'd have brought and extra 2 and no 3s.
stellar line. great for learning how to climb splitters. Mar 8, 2011
Bret  
Spectacular route. YMMV, but I'd go a bit heavier on #2 camalots and lighter on the #3's (maybe 4 or 5 and 2, respectively). Nov 3, 2009
sweet route! I don't have large hands and I thought the jams were perfect. The last 10-15 feet after the rest I thought the hands would be difficult because the hands would be big, but I didn't have any problems. All the jams felt great. On supercrack the hands definately get a little rattely. Dec 3, 2008
BretWith1T
Laramie, Wyoming
  5.10-
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
  5.10-
I was kinda hung over when I got on this, but it was still a highlight of the trip. If you have kinda largish hands, DO NOT MISS THIS CLIMB! It's a beautiful little cruise on beautiful rock. Sep 21, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
The dihedral to the left was a really fun TR, did it back in '04 or'05. I would agree that .12- seems about right. Wonder if it's been lead? Aug 18, 2008
From the anchor, with a directional or two you can toprope the dihedral to the left. Probably 12- with some really desperate tip-liebacking. Jan 29, 2008
SirVato
Boulder
  5.10-
SirVato   Boulder
  5.10-
Definitely a sweet pitch. Awesome warm up!! Shady in the morning May 12, 2006
Danny Inman
Arvada
  5.10a
Danny Inman   Arvada
  5.10a
This route is great! The curvature of the crack at the bottom makes this one interesting. The hands are perfect. This is a must if you are at Way Rambo. Mar 24, 2005