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Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Description

Mostly Sport climbing just before Isle of You Wall. This area is being developed by Mike and Amy Diesen, Daryl Allen and Angel Mangual-Guadalupe. Great routes and well bolted. A 60 meter rope is required for most routes.

Here is a list of the routes so far from left to right:
Good and Plenty 5.7
Peanut Brittle 5.9+
Rick Krispie Treat 5.12
Cracker Jack 5.10c/d
Everlasting Gobstopper 5.10c/d
Mounds 5.10-
Hot Tamale 5.10b/c
Jawbreaker 5.10a/b
Pop Rocks 5.10a
Thingamajig 5.9+
Watchamacallit 5.8
Kit Kat 5.8
Atomic Fireball 5.10c/d
Now and Later 5.10b
Pay Day 5.9+
Unknown Left of Zagnut 5.11+ R
Zagnut 5.11b
Butterfinger 5.11c
Lemmonhead 5.11a
Taste the Rainbow 5.8 (around back side)

The rock quality is pretty good and the loose stuff is getting cleaned up but this is a new area and there is still some loose stuff. MAKE SURE YOUR BELAYER WEARS A HELMET.

Getting There

After turning on the spur road to Isle of You it is the obvious 140 foot rock on the right.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sweet Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Xander Wyckoff
Tucsies
Xander Wyckoff   Tucsies
Hey y'all friends,

We left a Cochise west guidebook here at sweet rock yesterday, march 30. If someone finds it and brings it to Tucson we will buy certainly buy them the best of tacos. PM me if you find it!

Thanx
Xander May 1, 2017
mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
Whether you are climbing or belaying here, PLEASE WEAR A HELMET! Despite the heavy traffic this crag gets, loose rock flies off of every climb like crazy. Please do yourself and the rest of the climbing community a favor by doming up. Oct 27, 2013
Matt Riddle
Sierra Vista, AZ
Matt Riddle   Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Thanks for the kind words Eric and nice send on the 12 alt start. Sweet Rock was absolutely packed this past weekend. I've never seen that many people there before. We stopped in for a bit on Saturday and met some really nice out of towners and lots of folks from Tucson as well. Those routes are cleaning up nice and with another season or two will be even better. Thanks again for the feedback! d Mar 17, 2011
Nice Job Mike, Amy, Daryl and Angel! I finally got out here to climb. Had a lot of fun. Good routes, bolts in good spots, not any kitty litter to speak of. Had a fun day with a friend who needed some easy ten or less climbing and we had fun. Thanks for the hard work. Also did a thing called Milk Duds. Not sure if it has been done as I don't see it posted up. Probably 12b or so but a bit wandery. I would move some bolts around and force it farther right as it keeps you off the 9 and ten longer. Worth doing. Thanks again. Eric
Oct 17, 2010
Justin York
Phoenix, AZ
Justin York   Phoenix, AZ
Anyone know about the new route between Peanut Brittle and Cracker Jack? May 23, 2010
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
HEY Guy!!!! Finally I will be back on February for a couple of weeks. I am looking forward to go climbing as a group again like old times YEAH!!! Miss you ALL!!! Dec 13, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Pretty sure a lot of these routes are 60m rope only. Nov 1, 2009
Marty  
How tall are those routes? Can you do them with a 50m or 60m rope? Oct 29, 2009
Thanks for sharing all the info for Sweet Rock. Some people aren't so quick to share. Oct 3, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Hey Primo. I heard through a friend that someone in your group got tagged pretty bad deflecting a rock while belaying on Mounds. Very sorry to hear about the accident. I hope it wasn't too serious and that she's able to heal and climb very soon. d Sep 17, 2009
Lots of stuff still coming off here - highly recommend helmet wear, especially for the belayer. Fun routes that will clean up nicely as people get on them more. Some holds will still come off in your hand (or under your feet), so be wary of that as you head up!!
Regardless, go climb them - the 5 second approach is worth it! :)
Mostly shady until about 2 pm as of now, which makes for pleasant temperatures. Sep 13, 2009
project at sweet rock just left of cracker jack. has three bolts on it at present time.very hard climbing on great rock will. Apr 28, 2009
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Great routes! Thanks to all the FAs for their hard work.

I would recommend carrying 18 or so quickdraws as most routes are long and well bolted.

My personal favorites were "Pay Day" and "Hot Tamale". Apr 26, 2009
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
Especially adding gadgets on it :) By the way, STOP! making more routes...I am getting jealouse damn it...Leave some some for me Apr 15, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
That's right! Gadgets were installed instead of bolts/hangers out at sweet rock. The term 'hangers' is to be ritually replaced with 'gadgets' while climbing here. =) Apr 6, 2009
Mike Dudley
Vegas
Mike Dudley   Vegas
"Then I saw them gadgets you all put in the rock..." Mar 30, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
It's northwest facing so gets pm sun. Mar 3, 2009
Larry
SoAZ
Larry   SoAZ
What's the sun exposure at this rock? AM sun or PM sun? Mar 2, 2009
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
What sup guys!! Men I am stuck in Kuwait waiting to go to Afghanistan. I met this dude from SF but civilian and he is a climber and had climb in Afghanistan. He said the climbing was great and of course no body has really climb it. Men, If I can I will do it. Men do I miss it. Oh by the way they sell Rock Ice magazine over here awesome! Feb 9, 2009
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
Bad teacher! Not a good example. haha Jan 26, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Exactly! Ya gotta be tough when you're dumb! :) You're right though.. I should have had the bucket on. Jan 26, 2009
Brigette
Mukilteo, WA
Brigette   Mukilteo, WA
Sweet Rock, indeed. Great job Mike and company! The new routes are fun, fun, fun. Good range of climbs, with something for everyone.

Daryl - Taking your advice on the helmet, but I've just got to point out the photo above of you and Angel standing under a climber *bareheaded*. :) Do as I say, not as I do? Jan 26, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Would like to 2nd Mike's comment about the helmet. Everyone standing around at the base of a route where someone is climbing should have a helmet on. This is good form anywhere but should practiced here in particular. The area is very new so expect some debris. We've worked hard to pull off the obvious (and some not so obvious) meteors but more are sure to come; particularly as you move to the routes to the middle and to the right. Jan 15, 2009

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