The Punchbowl Rock Climbing
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In 2022: the closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier that season. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the peregrine falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, effective 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible at the Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, climbing routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c we saw peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 year reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, firstname.lastname@example.org or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.email@example.com. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, & how to provide your comments is available by contacting the FS.
Thank you for your interest.
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
There are now more than 10 routes at the cave and to the right, from 5.9 to 5.hard.
Left of the cave, in the trees, are some 10/11s, and some harder routes further left (perhaps a dozen or so routes). Not much is known about these lines yet, except that Luke Laeser and Co. put in a handful, and the rock looks really good, for the most part.
There are a handful of quality lines here. Right of the Punchbowl are a number of routes. Corporate Greed is a short, fun 5.9, ****. I've heard tell Spiked Punch (12c, ****) is a classic, I think Drive by Shooting (11d/12a, ****) is definitely a worthy route. Turds in the Punchbowl (12a, **) is worth getting on for the stiff crux up high. Several (relatively) new routes can be found by following the trail around the corner to the right of Turds.
Smoke on the Water (11c, ****) starts on the left side of the cave and is super fun, with a finish that arcs right over the top of the cave.
There are a two bolted lines on the right arch of the cave that look really hard. According to the 2008 Guidebook from Wolverine Publishing, these are 13c & 13d.
A. Smoke on the Water, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
B. Super Barnacle, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Punchbown Arch (Right Arch of Cave), 13+? PG-13?, 1p, 90', bolts.
D. Unknown, 13+?, 1p, bolts
E. Momentary Lack of Resin?, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Spiked Punch, 12, 1p.
G. Lugie Head, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Corporate Greed, 9-, 1p, 35', bolts.
I. Snipe Hunter, 12c?, 1p, bolts.
J. Drive by Shooting, 11+, 1p, bolts.
K. Turds in the Punchbowl, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
L. Gray Block Left (submitted as Blue Route 2), 11+, 1p, 30', bolts.
M. Gray Block Right (submitted as Blue Route 1), 11, 1p, 30', bolts.
N. Bam, 10, 1p, 30', bolts.
O. Let The Honeymoon Begin, 10, 1p, 65', bolts.
P. Sunrise Shuffle, 7, 1p, 75', bolts.
Q. Mouse, 8, 1p, 45', bolts.
above Q. Mouse Almighty, 11-, 1p, 45', bolts.
R. Imperfunction, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
S. Spider Evictor, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
More routes to the right.
Editorial note: there appears to be only 2 "vertical" routes between the cave & "Corporate Greed;, though this lists 3. I am not sure what the deal is with that.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Punchbowl
Days w Precip