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Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Creek) Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 9,115 ft | 2,778 m |
| GPS: |
39.40728, -106.65538 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 293,691 total · 1,106/month | |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Jul 20, 2004 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2025 Raptor Closure - Endless Wall & Magic Forest - rescinded
Details
6/18/25: USFS monitored LC for nesting peregrine falcons, & a pair established a nest. The active nest site is in the “Endless Wall & Magic Forest areas. They request not climbing there.
2023: the nesting peregrine falcon pair at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest was now in effect until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Info is posted at the site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary closure, incl. at Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the N end of the canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the canyon to a point about 180' N of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest-dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible @ Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 yr reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each yr based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
Our intent is to protect the area of the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 yr restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More info regarding the proposal, rationale, & how to provide your comments - contact the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
Description
This is great limestone sport climbing in the high central mountains! The routes are on primarily bulletproof limestone reminiscent of Ceuse, Shelf, or Rifle, dependent upon the wall. This area is nowhere near tapped out, so bring your Bosch, and throw in quality-only routes down canyon. Camping can be had right at the entrance to the canyon within forty yards of the first routes. Bring food and beer, since the nearest stores are 45 some minutes away in either Eagle or Basalt. There are some great 5.12ish routes to either side of the camping and parking - cave to the left, prow to the right. Cave-side the climbs are mostly stellar with great protection and lowering bolts, rings, etc. Development began in the early to mid nineties and is ongoing with new routes continuing to be added. No road choss here.
Getting There
From Eagle: Follow signage thru town towards Sylvan Lake State Park. You should eventually find yourself heading South on Brush Creek Rd. Ten miles from Eagle, veer right as the road turns to dirt. After approximately 15.5 miles from I-70, you will pass Sylvan Lake on the right. The road deteriorates somewhat at this point, but is generally fine for normal passenger cars the entire way.
Continue past the lake on Forest Service Road 400 for approximately 8 miles to FS 507. ~1 mile after the lake, stay left at the fork. ~3 miles past Sylvan lake, you will reach Crooked Creek Pass. Continue straight. 2 miles beyond the pass, you will pass Crooked Creek Reservoir on the left. 1 mile past Crooked Creek Reservoir, turn left onto FS 507. Turn right onto Burnt Mountain Road after 0.4 miles. This is a total of 9.1 miles past Sylvan Lake, or 24.6 miles from I-70.
0.2 miles after the right turn, you will see the canyon below and to the west. Turn right into the canyon. There is a road on either side of Lime Creek. The Punch Bowl is on the East side of the canyon, and all other crags are on the West side. The West Road is more suitable for low-clearance vehicles. If you're camping, the East Road provides more secluded camp sites.
According to my atlas this area can also be approached from Basalt.
2025 Raptor nesting update
6/18/25:
The USFS wanted to inform you that they have been monitoring Lime Canyon for the presence of nesting peregrine falcon, and we have spotted a pair that have established a nest. The active nest site is found in the “Endless Wall” and “Magic Forest” area. To protect the nest, we are pursuing a Special Order to close a portion of the area to activity, including climbing.
A peregrine falcon pair has nested in Lime Canyon since 2016, with a break in 2024. The area to be restricted is unique and has the specific resources needed for the falcons to hatch and rear their young. The pair has established its 2025 nest site and begun incubating eggs. The pair cannot go elsewhere and needs solitude from humans at the cliff because they will avoid areas in reaction to human presence. This can lead to the adults abandoning their eggs and young.
We are asking that folks not climb in this area to give the falcons the best chance to successfully hatch and rear their young until we get the Special Order in place, which will prohibit climbing in the defined area. Signs are being placed at the Lime Canyon area to inform the public. I’ve attached a map of the closure area, for your information.
Please feel free to reach out to U.S. Forest Service with any questions. We appreciate your dedication to preserving the wildlife in this special area.
Jennifer Schuller, Deputy District Ranger, US Forest Service, White River National Forest, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District
Previously: June 15, 2023: The White River National Forest has temporarily closed rock climbing to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons north of the Endless wall area of Lime Creek Canyon until August 1st.
Specific to the Endless Wall at Jellystone Park, the closure begins about 75 feet to climber’s right of the route Fruit of the Linen and extends about 2000 feet up the main canyon to a point about 180 feet north of the overhead powerline.
The closure order and maps are available at https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/whiteriver/notices/?cid=STELPRDB5176138, see Aspen-Sopris Ranger District --> Lime Canyon Peregrine Falcon Nesting Closure.
Phil Nyland, Forest Service Wildlife Biologist, White River NF, Aspen-Sopris District, p: 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov,
PO Box 309, 620 Main St., Carbondale, CO 81623, www.fs.fed.us.
Visitation Questionnaire
You are being invited to take part in a research study about the recreational use of Lime Park (Lime Creek) to better understand how individuals and groups use the area.
Click here to access the questionnaire.
The White River National Forest has identified Lime Park recreational area as a site in need of management due to the continual increase in use by recreationalists, especially the rock-climbing community. Lime Park is located in a remote area within the National Forest resulting in significant management challenges for the area, primarily impacts from recreational use such as increased human waste and habitat degradation.
This project will result in a recreational management plan and the formation of a “Friends of Lime Park” stakeholder committee to co-manage the area with the support of the National Forest. The project uses adaptive management strategies to ensure the area remains accessible to all, achieving a high-quality user experience with minimal negative environmental impacts within a remote wilderness region.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Creek)
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