Elevation: 9,100 ft
GPS: 39.407, -106.656 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 212,690 total · 1,073/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 20, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

This is great limestone sport climbing in the high central mountains! The routes are on primarily bulletproof limestone reminiscent of Ceuse, Shelf, or Rifle, dependent upon the wall. This area is nowhere near tapped out, so bring your Bosch, and throw in quality-only routes down canyon. Camping can be had right at the entrance to the canyon within forty yards of the first routes. Bring food and beer, since the nearest stores are 45 some minutes away in either Eagle or Basalt. There are some great 5.12ish routes to either side of the camping and parking - cave to the left, prow to the right. Cave-side the climbs are mostly stellar with great protection and lowering bolts, rings, etc. Development began in the early to mid nineties and is ongoing with new routes continuing to be added. No road choss here.

Getting There

From Eagle: Follow signage thru town towards Sylvan Lake State Park. You should eventually find yourself heading South on Brush Creek Rd. Ten miles from Eagle, veer right as the road turns to dirt. After approximately 15.5 miles from I-70, you will pass Sylvan Lake on the right. The road deteriorates somewhat at this point, but is generally fine for normal passenger cars the entire way.

Continue past the lake on Forest Service Road 400 for approximately 8 miles to FS 507. ~1 mile after the lake, stay left at the fork. ~3 miles past Sylvan lake, you will reach Crooked Creek Pass. Continue straight. 2 miles beyond the pass, you will pass Crooked Creek Reservoir on the left. 1 mile past Crooked Creek Reservoir, turn left onto FS 507. Turn right onto Burnt Mountain Road after 0.4 miles. This is a total of 9.1 miles past Sylvan Lake, or 24.6 miles from I-70.

0.2 miles after the right turn, you will see the canyon below and to the west. Turn right into the canyon. There is a road on either side of Lime Creek. The Punch Bowl is on the East side of the canyon, and all other crags are on the West side. The West Road is more suitable for low-clearance vehicles. If you're camping, the East Road provides more secluded camp sites.

According to my atlas this area can also be approached from Basalt.

107 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Creek)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 79
Drilla From Manilla
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 64
Snail Trail
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
Corporate Greed
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
Old School
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 57
Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 84
Rafting with Rednecks (aka "Test")
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Behind The Fridge
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 99
Uckfay Ushbay
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 32
Imperfunction
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 55
Pineapple Thunderpussy (aka Magi…
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 37
Smoke on the Water
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 48
The Bush League
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 42
Drive By Shooting
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 28
Momentary Lack of Resin
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 26
Snipe Hunter
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Drilla From Manilla Prow
 79
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Snail Trail Prow
 64
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Corporate Greed Punchbowl
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Old School Prow
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Extremely Loud and Incredib… Prow
 57
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Rafting with Rednecks (aka… N Wall
 84
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Behind The Fridge Team Wall
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Uckfay Ushbay N Wall
 99
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Imperfunction Secret Stash
 32
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pineapple Thunderpussy (aka… N Wall
 55
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Smoke on the Water Punchbowl
 37
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Bush League N Wall
 48
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Drive By Shooting Punchbowl
 42
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Momentary Lack of Resin Punchbowl
 28
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Snipe Hunter Punchbowl
 26
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Creek) »

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