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Radical Sabbatical
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Punchbowl
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Bam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Corporate Greed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Drive By Shooting S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gray Block Left (submitted as Blue Route 2) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gray Block Right (submitted as Blue Route 1) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Let The Honeymoon Begin S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lugie Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Momentary Lack of Resin S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mouse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mouse Almighty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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One Classy Bitch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Open Project - Extended Dance Party S V8 7B |
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Project S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Punchbowl Arch (Right Arch of Cave) S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Radical Sabbatical S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Raised By Wolves S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Silent Disco S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Smoke on the Water S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Snake!!! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Snipe Hunter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sunrise Shuffle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Super Barnacle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Turds in the Punchbowl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.4058, -106.6547 |
| FA: | Fred Knapp & Bret Ruckman, circa 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,092 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Knapp on Feb 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2025 Raptor Closure - Endless Wall & Magic Forest - rescinded
Details
8/7/25:Thank you for your support of the closure for nesting peregrine falcons this summer. NF no longer sees falcons. The order ended 8/8/25. - J. Schuller, NFS.
6/18/25: USFS monitored LC for nesting peregrine falcons, & a pair established a nest. The active nest site is in the “Endless Wall & Magic Forest areas. They request not climbing there.
2023: the nesting peregrine falcon pair at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest was now in effect until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Info is posted at the site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary closure, incl. at Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the N end of the canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the canyon to a point about 180' N of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest-dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible @ Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 yr reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each yr based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
Our intent is to protect the area of the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 yr restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More info regarding the proposal, rationale, & how to provide your comments - contact the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
6/18/25: USFS monitored LC for nesting peregrine falcons, & a pair established a nest. The active nest site is in the “Endless Wall & Magic Forest areas. They request not climbing there.
2023: the nesting peregrine falcon pair at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest was now in effect until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Info is posted at the site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary closure, incl. at Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the N end of the canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the canyon to a point about 180' N of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest-dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible @ Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 yr reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each yr based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
Our intent is to protect the area of the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 yr restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More info regarding the proposal, rationale, & how to provide your comments - contact the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
Description
First, a disclaimer: I'm writing this description about 15 years after the first ascent. Radical Sabbatical climbs an easy-looking but difficult short wall right of the cave. At the time, it was the first and only route in that area. It can be identified by a drilled baby angle and perhaps a quarter inch bolt at the anchor. Our drill ran out of batteries, and I led the climb with two fewer bolts than it has now, and an X-rating. Bret felt bad leaving it that way, so we hand drilled the pin and an upper bolt before leaving.
Photos
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