Elevation: 11,553 ft
GPS: 45.869, 6.892 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 69,844 total · 1,091/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 29, 2017
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, David Riley

Description

This area has routes and peaks around the high west side of the Geant glacier (upper Mer de Glace) which normally use the Aiguille du Midi lift for access or descent.

Mont Blanc du Tacul ("the Tacul") is famous + popular for ice and snow routes, and other dramatic peaks and their satellite towers are famous for granite multi-pitch.

Aiguille du Midi ("the Midi"), in addition to providing quick mechanical lift access, also has famous mixed ice/snow/rock routes, and at least one famous popular granite rock route.

There are other important climbing peaks, including Grand Capucin, Pointes de Lachenal, etc.

This Midi-Tacul area is frequently crossed by ski mountaineers and off-piste downhill skiers in winter and spring.

It is also the starting point for a popular technical snow/ice route for reacning the summit of Mont Blanc, called "The Three Mont Blancs" (the first of the "three" is Mont Blanc du Tacul).

The Refuge des Cosmiques hut is the main sleeping base for this area. Though many routes are successfully done as day-trips using the lift both up and down. It's also legal to sleep overnight on the glacier around Col du Midi flat in a tent, though need to check rules + laws about distance from the Refuge and perhaps taking the tent down during eacy day. There is no sleeping inside the structures connected with the lift top station.
. . Some of the routes (e.g. on the Grand Capucin) around the S + SE side of the Tacul are more easily reached from the Pointe Helbronner lift up fron Italy or sleeping at the Rifugio Torino hut (or camping on the glacier on the Combe Maudit flat).

Getting There

Many routes normally use the Aiguille du Midi and Plan d'Aiguille lift for access and descent. Some routes on the Aiguille du Midi peak itself are accessed from the Plan d'Aiguille lift, then descended using the Aiguille Midi lift.
Bottom station (GPS lat long approx N45.9183 E6.8703) for the lifts is on the south side of the town of Chamonix.

Some routes and peaks on E + SE + S side of the Tacul are more easily accessed from the Pointe Helbronner lift or the Rifugio Torino hut connected with the lift top station. Bottom station for the Helbronner lift is in Italy near Courmayeur.
. . (note on return, do not need to hike all the way up to the lift top station -- instead can walk around to Rifugio Torino and take the elevator).

Although it is possible to hike from the Chamonix valley up to the top of the Plan d'Aiguille lift (perhaps necessary for descent if that lift is unexpectedly closed due to high winds), the only (possibly?) non-technical way to get anywhere near Mont Blanc du Tacul or the upper part of Aiguille du Midi would be a long long way around N + NE from Montenvers.

38 Total Climbs

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Location: Midi - Tacul Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Midi - Tacul

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
AI4 M3
 22
Goulotte Chéré
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 8 pitches
AI4 M5+
 5
Vent du Dragon
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
AI2-3 Steep Snow
 11
Tour Ronde North Face
Ice, Snow, Alpine
AI2 M2 Easy Snow
 6
Contamine Grisolle
Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 7
Trois Monts
Snow, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 7
Arete a Laurance
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 M4 Mod. Snow
 67
Cosmiques Arête
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI2
 6
Kuffner Ridge (aka Frontier Ridge)
Trad, Ice, Alpine
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
East Ridge
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Voie des Suisses - exit O Sole Mio
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
Voie Rébuffat-Baquet
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Voie Salluard
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Voie Rébuffat
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Voie Contamine
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Contamine
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Goulotte Chéré Vallée Blanche Basin
 22
AI4 M3 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 8 pitches
Vent du Dragon Vallée Blanche Basin
 5
AI4 M5+ Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Tour Ronde North Face Vallée Blanche Basin
 11
AI2-3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Contamine Grisolle Vallée Blanche Basin
 6
AI2 M2 Easy Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Trois Monts Vallée Blanche Basin
 7
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Arete a Laurance Vallée Blanche Basin
 7
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
Cosmiques Arête Vallée Blanche Basin
 67
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 M4 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Kuffner Ridge (aka Frontier… Mont Blanc du T… > Dent du Géant
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI2 Trad, Ice, Alpine
East Ridge Pyramide du Tacul
 7
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Voie des Suisses - exit O S… Grand Capucin
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Voie Rébuffat-Baquet Aiguille du Midi
 47
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Voie Salluard Pointe Adolphe Rey
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Voie Rébuffat Éperon des Cosmiques
 8
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Voie Contamine Pointes Lachenal
 22
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Contamine Aiguille du Midi
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
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