Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: C.Guiffra, D. Monacci 1973
Page Views: 335 total · 13/month
Shared By: Aaron Liebling on Feb 22, 2019
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route

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Another great route on classic Mont Blanc granite.  The crux roof is less difficult than it looks.

P1 - The first pitch traditionally goes up right off the gully on the far left of the Eperon (the Cosmiques Ice when it's in) which is now exposed to a good amount of rockfall.  Recommended it to take the enjoyable first pitch of "Fred va se taire" (5.9) which starts on the obvious flakes to the right of the gully.  Either way, end up on the large ledge.

P2 - Aim for the large left facing corner and ascend it.  Proceed left and up ending at a belay about 5m below and left of the even larger left facing corner. (5.9)

P3 - Climb up the large corner.  It's difficult to see, but you can pull out on to a crack  just before the overhang.  Alternately, the overhang can be negotiated with the help of some positive, but non-obvious holds.  Three is a bolt immediately after you pull around if you go this way.  Continue up and left to a belay (10a)

P4 - The rockfax guide lists this as a stellar handcrack, but all we found was an offwidth!  You're aiming for a ledge up and left about 20m (a short pitch).  We reached it by face climbing left (fixed gear) to reach the offwidth crack and then on to the ledge (5.10b)

P5 - Continue up the obvious crack to the top (5.10a)

Route can be rapped or walked off via the Cosmiques Arete (note that if you're tryin to make the last bin back, you have the majority of Cosmiques to climb still so factor that in to your planning).


On the Eperon, look for the large obvious roofs.  This route goes up the left side of the corner leading up from the leftmost roof.


some fixed gear.