Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||C.Guiffra, D. Monacci 1973|
|Page Views:||335 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Liebling on Feb 22, 2019|
|Admins:||Euan Cameron, Luc-514|
P1 - The first pitch traditionally goes up right off the gully on the far left of the Eperon (the Cosmiques Ice when it's in) which is now exposed to a good amount of rockfall. Recommended it to take the enjoyable first pitch of "Fred va se taire" (5.9) which starts on the obvious flakes to the right of the gully. Either way, end up on the large ledge.
P2 - Aim for the large left facing corner and ascend it. Proceed left and up ending at a belay about 5m below and left of the even larger left facing corner. (5.9)
P3 - Climb up the large corner. It's difficult to see, but you can pull out on to a crack just before the overhang. Alternately, the overhang can be negotiated with the help of some positive, but non-obvious holds. Three is a bolt immediately after you pull around if you go this way. Continue up and left to a belay (10a)
P4 - The rockfax guide lists this as a stellar handcrack, but all we found was an offwidth! You're aiming for a ledge up and left about 20m (a short pitch). We reached it by face climbing left (fixed gear) to reach the offwidth crack and then on to the ledge (5.10b)
P5 - Continue up the obvious crack to the top (5.10a)
Route can be rapped or walked off via the Cosmiques Arete (note that if you're tryin to make the last bin back, you have the majority of Cosmiques to climb still so factor that in to your planning).