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Elevation: 12,592 ft 3,838 m
GPS: 45.85214, 6.89873
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,575 total · 141/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 19, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514

Description Suggest change

Tower steep on every side, looming over the flat of the giant upper glacier ... "le sommet mythique". No route eaaier than sustained 5.10.

Great routes include:
* Voie des Suisses (often using the upper part of O Sole Mio).
* Directe des Capucines
* Voyage selon Gulliver

Nearest hut is Rifugio Torino, but the routes are so long, many climbers camp on the Combe Maudit flat below east (and also do other routes on other towers nearby).

Getting There Suggest change

Shortest is by taking the lift from Italy up to Pointe Helbronner (with the hut Rifugio Torino), then walking (or skiing) on the glacier (with significant crevasse-fall hazard) over and down to the Combe Maudit flat part (approx N45.8503 E6.9051) below the tower.
. . (note on return, do not need to hike all the way up to the lift top station -- instead can walk around to Rifugio Torino and take the elevator).

Could also be reached from Aiguille du Midi lift or from the hut Refuge des Cosmiques.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Capucin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Voie des Suisses - exit O Sole Mio
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Voie des Suisses - exit O S…
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
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