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Routes in Grand Capucin

Voie des Suisses - exit O Sole Mio T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

Tower steep on every side, looming over the flat of the giant upper glacier ... "le sommet mythique". No route eaaier than sustained 5.10.

Great routes include:
  • Voie des Suisses (often using the upper part of O Sole Mio).
  • Directe des Capucins
  • Voyage selon Gulliver

Nearest hut is Rifugio Torino, but the routes are so long, many climbers camp on the Combe Maudit flat below east (and also do other routes on other towers nearby).

Getting There

Shortest is by taking the lift from Italy up to Pointe Helbronner (with the hut Rifugio Torino), then walking (or skiing) on the glacier (with significant crevasse-fall hazard) over and down to the Combe Maudit flat part (approx N45.8503 E6.9051) below the tower.
. . (note on return, do not need to hike all the way up to the lift top station -- instead can walk around to Rifugio Torino and take the elevator).

Could also be reached from Aiguille du Midi lift or from the hut Refuge des Cosmiques.

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