Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 523 total · 33/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 19, 2017
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Sustained interesting route up to a mythic summit. The least difficult route up a tower with no easy routes.
. . (difficulty in French guidebooks / websites is usually given as III TD+ 6a).

The full classic route has a difficult finish (5.10d whose hardest sequence could be aided but still leaves some 5.10b sequences). More parties nowadays finish on the route O Sole Mio (starts to left of "Suisses") whose climbing in its upper pitches is at least as interesting as on the full route, but not as difficult.

Getting to the start is on snow / ice, requires crossing a bergschrund (FR "rimaye") or double bergschrund -- normally gets more difficult later in the season (and often with each succeeding year as warming continues). So bring equipment + skill for "engineering" across it (minimum is ice axe + cfampons) -- and check in advance to find out if crossing it is even possible. Returning likely is by rappeling over the bergschrund(s) in softer snow/ice requiring different experience + skill to accomplish safely.


Descent: Rappel (abseil) with two 50-meter ropes required (usually using belay/rappel stations for a route(s) to the right (but perhaps could be done with belay/rappel stations on the route O Sole Mio to the left).


Bottom of route or bergschrund crossing around GPS latitude longitude (N45.8513 E6.8996). Reached from the flat part around (N45.8503 E6.9051) of the big glacier around Combe Maudit (with significant crevasse-fall hazard).

For ideas about how to reach Combe Maudit, see under Getting There section on Grand Capucin area page.


Two-bolt anchors at belay stations. Some intermediate bolts for leading on slab sections. But where the rock offers a Trad gear placement, you're expected to place your own gear. So bring a normal alpine Trad protection rack.

Two ropes for descent by rappels - (there's no other way down off).


The great alpine rock climb of my life.
With Nico on July 2016, hiked in from Pointe Helbronner lift, camped three nights on the glacier. Lucky with the weather, climbed four days. Aug 19, 2017
Frank Robertson
Ridgway, CO
Frank Robertson   Ridgway, CO
Do the classic finish - pulling a few draws on closely-spaced bolts lets you pass under the hardest bit of the amazing roof at 5.10/A0. And get down the way a bit right to Pointe Adolphe Rey for Cache Cache - maybe even better! Both are big, beautiful routes on spectacular spires of great rock with a lot of air! Easy ski from Torino Hut. Sep 22, 2018