Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: E Croups, L Grivel, A Ottoz 7/1940
Page Views: 424 total · 48/month
Shared By: Eric Bluemn on Jul 22, 2019
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

This is an excellent climb that stays mostly in the sun. As such, it can be quite crowded and an early start is recommended. Fast teams can do it in a day from the lift. While the climb is only rated 5a you may find that the crux of the day is actually accessing the bottom of the route while crossing the moat.

The climbing can be split into two sections: 1) following low angle terrain up the south-east face to gain the east ridge. 2) following the east ridge to the summit. The climbing on the southeast face is easy with many fixed anchors so there are many possible variations.

P1, 3a - Follow easy terrain above the ledge up and left for about 40m and build a belay below a corner.
P2, 4b - Follow the corner to a ledge
P3, 3a - Follow the ledge rightwards to a belay beneath slabs
P4, 4c - Move up the slabs via cracks and eventually trend right towards the ridgecrest and a bolted belay beneath some overhangs.
P5, 5a - Climb up slabs to reach the overhangs which can be passed on large holds. This deposits you beneath a short steep crack which is awkwardly climbed to a bolted belay.
P6, 4c - Climb the ramp above to reach a set of parallel finger and hand cracks. (optional bolted belay here). Climb the cracks until they prove difficult and then trend right around the ridge to access moderate slabby ground. Continuing up the cracks is possible but there are some large detached blocks above.
P7+P8, 4b,4a - Continue up good climbing on the slabs to a bolted belay just shy of the summit
P9, 3a - Climb from the belay to the summit and soak in the exposure. Downclimb back to the belay and trade off with your partner.

Descent: From the summit descend skier's right of the ridgeline on bolted rappels, eventually rappelling the large steep face just below the ridgeline. There are many stations and variations, but we did one 30m rappel to from the last bolted anchor, and then five 60m rappels to the ledge with our packs. 

Location

Circle around the peak so you can see the south-east face. Walk up the glacier below the intimidating hanging glacier above. Navigating the broken glacier and snow bridges to access the route can be quite complex, particularly later in the summer. Find a point to bridge the gap from snow to rock and scramble up to a moderately sized ledge where you can leave your packs.

Also, the common access point is right below some significant ice and rockfall zones. Be aware of this as you descend in the afternoon and have to cross under this terrain after things have warmed up. 

Protection

Single rack of cams with optional doubles in mid sizes, nuts, double 60m ropes.

Photos

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