Avg: 4 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1640 ft (497 m), 9 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||André Contamine, Pierre Labrunie and Robert Wohlschlag on 30 August 1959.|
|Page Views:||2,651 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||Priti Wright on Aug 4, 2015 · Updates|
|Admins:||Euan Cameron, Luc-514|
Above the direct start, climb a slab on the left (4a/5.5) to reach a broad crack that you climb until a large ledge, Pitch 1 (5b/5.8).
Then climb a small dihedral (5b/5.8) to reach a quartz ledge, P2.
On the right, a 40m crack (5b/5.8) leads to the ridge. Halfway up this pitch, there is a variant via another crack on the left, then on the right, which leads to the same belay, P3 (same difficulty).
Stay on the edge of the ridge for one pitch (4c/5.6), P4.
You then reach a large ledge on the right of a 50m high slab wall. now come the Money Pitches: Traverse to the left (5c/5.9) to reach a crack and use this to climb the wall (2 pitches, 6a+/5.10c or A1, with some pitons in-situ).
Continue near the ridge via 2 pitches (4a/5.5). Climb onto the ridge for a final pitch (4a/5.5) and follow this to the summit of the route by easier rocks.
Decent: Rappel down the neighboring route (near Harold & Maud) with 2x 50m ropes, or if you carried your gear with you, walk from the top of the route to the Aiguille du Midi tramway. For more info: https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54576/fr/pointe-lachenal-voie-contamine
(Corrections include subbing "French" for UK (grades are not UK but French), adding descent information. Based on both personal experience and checking for consensus from Camp-to-Camp: https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54576/fr/pointe-lachenal-voie-contamine)