Type: Trad, Alpine, 850 ft (258 m), 8 pitches
FA: 1979 (before cams) Jean Afanasieff, Denise Escande.
Page Views: 543 total · 17/month
Shared By: Patrick Sweeney on Jul 31, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Luc-514, David Riley, Bogdan P

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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A gorgeous route on classic orange and speckled Mont Blanc Granite. Lots of cracks, sharp flakes and dihedrals make this a must-do route. The 5th pitch is the crux and it's rated 6b. There are two parallel cracks that bulge out into an overhang, and you have to try and place protections while you're wrestling to get over the bulge. 

The entire route is breathtaking - with views of Italy and the entire Vallee Blanche area. You can either walk off the top and descend on the Lachenal traverse (shorter and easier) or you can rap down and then hike the 90-120 minutes back to the Aiguille du Midi. 


Two cable cars up to the top of the Aiguille du Midi - walk off the arette and follow the skiers path down the Vallee Blanch until you see the North facing side of the Mt Blanc du Tacul. 


Some pitons and anchors. and a few sketchy cordalette ancors