Voie Kohlmann

This route is characterized by excellent corner cracks mixed with some interesting face climbing that makes for an awesome day out. There is fixed gear all over this thing and all the anchors are bolted. The pitches are in general quite short so linking is common and speeds things up considerably. A classic route that can be freed at 11a but is quite simple to french free the cruxes if in doubt. This route is an excellent alternative to the Rebuffat route drawing less crowds. 

P1: There are 2 options to start out both following hand sized corner cracks to a belay 20m (5.8/9)

P2: Again follow a lower angle corner for 30m to a nice belay easy to link with the next pitch (5.9)

P3: Continue following the corner system using stemming and jamming for 20m (5.9)

P4: Follow the corner system then make interesting moves on flakes to a bolted belay 20m (5.9)

P5: Here is where the difficulties begin. Follow a ramp out the belay then undercling out left to a well protected face crux (it is possible to pull through the crux at A0). Follow layback moves on flakes to a belay ledge on the right 25m (10+).

P6: Ramble up a short crack and some blocky face climbing to a belay on the left side of a large corner, easily linked from the previous pitch 15m (5.7).

P7: Clip a bolt and traverse right of the belay around the corner. Enjoy the excellent hand and finger crack in the corner stemming and jamming your feet on good holds. A classic pitch 20m (10b/c).

P8: Continue up the corner with more of the same style another 20m to another belay. Link these 2 pitches for more fun and to stay out of the shade (10a).

P9: Continue left and then right on blocky terrain to a bolted anchor on a ledge 20m (5.7).

P10: The final pitch is shared with several routes on the face so expect crowds. It's a short and thin 10c affair, fully bolted with a short and aidable crux 15m.

From the top enjoy the views of the Valle Blanche and make one rappel to reach the Midi station and return to Chamonix

Use the standard Midi approach going down the snow ridge. The Kohlmann route is one of the first routes you will see on the South/East face.

Standard rack with some extra small pieces, lots of fixed gear and all anchors are fixed