Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Michel Piola and Pierre-Alain Steiner (1982)
Page Views: 340 total · 23/month
Shared By: Eric Blanc on Oct 28, 2018
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Location

Approach: 15 minutes from Aiguille du Midi
  • From Aiguille de Midi descend the Arete de Midi to the glacier.  On the glacier, Aiguille de Midi will appear on your right.  Follow the safest way to the base of the climb paying attention for crevasses.
  • Of course you could approach by abseiling from above, but this is advised against during peak season. Many ropeteams climb on the South face until mid-afternoon. It is better to approach from the bottom and exit at the top, or to rappel at less busy times.
  • The "Pitch 0" is the same as the «Rébuffat/Baquet».

Description

  • «Mr de Mesmaeker» is one of the first «modern»  routes of the massif. It is stunning, in its variety, in its somewhat exposed nature, and because you will perhaps not forget certain pitches...
  • 600 ft of rock climbing
    Fixed anchors
    Glue-ins and chain at the anchors
    Route rebolted in 2012
    50m rappels. 60m ropes advised
  • More information: http://chamgranit-topos.com/demesmaeker-print.html
  • Translation from french by Aanoud Petermann

Protection

- Glacier gear
- 2 set of C4 camalots up to n°3 (blue)
- 1 set of C3 from 0 or X4 .1 .2 .3
- 1 set of nuts
- 10-12 quickdraws of which 3-4 composed of a long sling

Itinerary "Monsieur de Mesmaeker"

Pitch 0 (30m 5.9) : First pitch of the «Rébuffat/Baquet» route. R0 is left of the large roof, in the slab.

Pitch 1 (25m 5.11b) : From R0, climb to the left for an unforgettable slab-journey. Fitted with pins. The lower part of the pitch is slightly runout, the harder moves at the exit are well protected. R1 is straight above.

Pitch 2 (30m 5.11b) : From R1, reach the conspicuous crack-flake on the left, exit straight, pins, and then traverse horizontally to the left following the airy crack. Leave straight up just before the end of the crack by way of a powerful move and continue to the R2 terrace.

Pitch 3 (30m 5.10d) : From R2, climb an easy crack system on the right and reach an obvious crack heading upwards left. Follow it while staying slightly to the left, there’s a pin at the crack’s exit. Make a horizontal move to the right, reach another crack that you will follow until you reach R3, which is in the corner on the left.

Pitch 4 (30m 5.10b) : From R3, climb an obvious crack to the left. After ten-or-so meters, make a move to the left to get to a platform. Follow the left crack above, easy. R4 is on the left, at the foot of the impressive vertical wall.

Pitch 5 (20m 5.10c) : From R4, traverse horizontally towards the left for ten-or-so meters and climb the crack which avoids the compact wall. Come back towards the right to the platform. R5 is way out right. The original route went directly over the wall above R4. 5.12d/A0. Not advisable right now; the gear in place dates back from the same era...

Pitch 6 (30m 5.12b) :
One of the most beautiful cracks on the Aiguille. Powerful at the start, then finger-sized and technical. From R5, traverse across the wall until you reach the crack to the right (5.12b).Then follow the line (5.11c) up till R6’s recess in the wall.

Pitch 7 (25m 5.10b) : From R6, go left to leave the corner and climb the fluted cracks. 2 pins to the right, towards the arête. R9  
is on a large platform.

Descent

  1. From R7, first follow the «De Mesmaeker» abseils until R5. Then use the «Super Dupont» rappels until you reach R0. The last abseil to reach the start is tricky because it traverses. Moreover, ropes can easily snag.
  2. From R7, follow the rappels of the «Contamine». Lower into the East face, towards the cables. you will land directly on the backpacks. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/115382146/contamine
  3. From the summit of the Aiguille. From R7, keep climbing passing left of the obvious spire. The anchor is above the couloir of the «Rébuffat’s» second-to-last pitch (5.8). A last short pitch leads to the summit (5.10b). A short diagonal rappel down the North face allows you to reach the tourist platforms of the Aiguille.

Photos

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