Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Michel Piola et Pierre-Alain Steiner (1984)|
|Page Views:||767 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Eric Blanc on Nov 1, 2018|
|Admins:||Euan Cameron, Luc-514|
- From Aiguille de Midi descend the Arete de Midi to the glacier. On the glacier, Aiguille de Midi will appear on your right. Follow the safest way to the base of the climb paying attention for crevasses.
- Of course you could approach by abseiling from above, but this is advised against during peak season. Many ropeteams climb on the South face until mid-afternoon. It is better to approach from the bottom and exit at the top, or to rappel at less busy times.
- The Pitches 8 & 9 belong to «Mr De Mesmaeker» (5.12b & 5.10b)
- «Super Dupont» has become a classic route. Every pitch is beautiful. Some, like L2 and L5, are very intense. L4 is a training-ground for developing calm and motivation. The exit in «Mr de Mesmaeker» is recommended.
- 600 ft of rock climbing
Bolt-resins and chain at the anchors
50m rappels. 60m ropes advised
- More information: chamgranit-topos.com/cham_n…
- Translation from french by Aanoud Petermann
- 2 set of C4 camalots up to n°3 (blue)
- 1 set of C3 or X4 .1 .2 .3
- 1 set of nuts
- 10-12 quickdraws of which 3-4 composed of a long sling
Pitch2 (25m 5.11a/b): From R1, go to the right, overcome a short vertical wall and reach the thin diagonal crack under the overhanging step. Follow this crack for about ten meters to the left, pins. Then directly overcome the steep wall above, powerful, then a short corner. R2 is on the right.
Pitch3 (30m 5.10c): From R2, come back to the left and overcome a short and tricky slab section. The slab pitch’s way then unfolds intelligently, in the easier sections. R3 is right of an obvious ramp, shared with the «Rébuffat-Baquet» route.
Pitch4 (15m 5.11d): From R3, go to the right and overcome the short crack section above. Pin at the start. Intense and difficult to protect in its middle part. R4 is on the left.
Pitch5 (30m 5.11c): From R4, climb the crack above and get to the obvious corner on the left. Short but intense, cheers to the pin under the roof... Avoid the roof by going left and continue through a line of cracks. R5 is at the exit of the easier corner.
Pitch6 (30m 5.10b): From R5, get over the short and powerful crack above, climb a short corner on the left. R6 is on a good ledge.
Pitch7 (25m 5.10c): From R6 keep going upwards left following the thin crack (pitons). Overcome the little roof by way of a powerful crack and come back to the right onto the ledge. R7 is way right. The end of «Super Dupont»/ Rappels.
Pitch8 (30m 5.12b): «De Mesmaeker» exit. One of the most beautiful cracks of the Aiguille, powerful at the beginning, then finger-sized and subtle. From R7, traverse in a wall until you reach the crack to the right (5.12b). Then follow the line (5.11c) until the R8 alcove.
Pitch9 (25m 5.10b): From R6, leave the corner on the left and overcome the fluted cracks above, 2 pins to the right towards the edge. R9 is on a large sloping ledge.
- From R9: First, follow the «De Mesmaeker» rappels until R7. Then use the «Super Dupont» rappels.
- By way of the Aiguille summit: From R9, continue the climb going right of the obvious spur. Anchor above the couloir of the second to last pitch of the «Rébuffat» (5.8) A last short pitch leads to the summit (5.10c, A0). A short diagonal rappel in the North face leads to the tourist balcony of the Aiguille.