The Diamond Rock Climbing

The rap route on the Diamond off the left side on D7 is becoming very crowded, and I have seen parties ascending D7 become the victims of whiplash. Rude people are just as numerous on the Diamond as anywhere else. The raps start just below Table Ledge, directly above D7 . Nearly all of the anchors (all bolted, 5 in total) are slightly to one side or another--rappel slowly. The Crack of Delight rappels (total of 4) are also all from bolts and thankfully do not actually occur in the North Chimney; they start at the edge of Broadway below the Casual Route (near a Lower East Face route called Crack of Delight - which is South of the North Chimney).

Make sure you head far enough climber's left on the first rappel. If you are at slings and not bolts, you are off-route and your rope will get stuck! Again, rappel slowly.

I prefer to walk off from Table Ledge (not least because when we rappelled, it didn't really feel like we had completed the climb). Once on Kiener's, head steadily up right to find the fourth class step around--if it seems harder, try somewhere else. From the summit (or just above the step around), contour to the north (should not exceed 3rd class or present any exposure) to pick up some cairns which lead to the North Face rappel, off the huge eyebolts which used to anchor the cables (one double or two single rope raps). Head out to the Boulderfield and the trail, or hike down the ridge to Mount Lady Washington (above the Chasm View Wall) until you can descend down talus slopes to the south. Look for a loose gully (the Camel gully) which bears to the right and desposits you on the talus/scree/snow above Chasm Lake. One can also take the Keyhole (hiking) route down from the summit--follow the sign and paint splotches on the rocks.

If you have rappeled D7, you traverse climber's right to the Crack of Delight rappels across the loose and sloping Broadway. Note, that Crack of Delight is South of the North Chimney. See . For more details, per Byron Murray: follow a small, but well-defined trail from the base of the Casual Route down through some talus, bending left to kind of a grassy ramp area. The trail terminates, and there may be a couple 4th class moves down a slot to a ledge. Bolts/chains on your left, maybe chest high. 1 short rap (single rope) to a huge ledge. 3 double rope raps from there, last one puts you halfway down the snowfield.