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Elevation: 7,703 ft
GPS: 38.5448, -106.928
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

Gunnison is a city of about 5,000 people and is located at the bottom of several valleys. Due to its location, cold air in all the valleys settles into Gunnison at night, making it one of the coldest places in Colorado if not the States.

In this area is a great variety of climbing opportunities ranging from short cragging to some of the longest rock routes in the state. In fact, the only grade VI routes in Colorado are located here.

West of the town of Gunnison is the The Black Canyon of Guninson or "The Black" as it is affectionately referred to, and is Colorado's big wall climbing destination. Land here is a combination of private, state, BLM, and federal land. Take this into consideration if you go exploring, since some locals do not take kindly to uninvited crossing of their property. Tires have been known to be slashed, cars ticketed, and climbers escorted off private land.

"The Black" is as deep as 2700 feet at its greatest depth. There are no other canyon in the country that has the same depth relative to its width as The Black and and hence it is located in the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park. The visitor guide has helpful information if you are visiting it for the first time.

Getting There Suggest change

Gunnison is located on US 50 in the SW part of the state. From the east, you can drive from US 285 to US 50 over Monarch Pass (11,000 feet) and drop down into the town of Gunnison. Directions from there depend upon the exact area. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison lies West of Gunnison along US 50 for the South Rim and off CO Hwy 92 for the North Rim. From the Denver Metro area, it is 4 plus hours to Gunnison. From the West, you can access US 50 from Montrose via US 50 from the N and US 550 (the Million Dollar Hwy) from the S. From Montrose, it is an hour plus to Gunnison.

Camping and Lodging
The Tomichi Lodge (alt 10,300’), nestled in the town of Whitepine in the Gunnison National Forest, offers nearby access to The Palisades via Alpine Tunnel Road as well as numerous other climbing areas in Gunnison & Chaffee Counties. Enjoy a rustic mountain experience with some key comforts including four bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a fully stocked kitchen, indoor plumbing with hot showers and a seasonal, outdoor cowboy hot tub. Your mountain adventure basecamp awaits you.

A map of the area

757 Total Climbs

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Location: Gunnison Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Gunnison

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 116
Left Hand Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 245
Escape Artist
Trad 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 56
Sasafrass
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 160
Journey Home
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 274
Comic Relief
Trad 8 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 118
Checkerboard Wall
Trad 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 63
The Cruise
Trad 12 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 55
Cloaked Interpretation
Trad 8 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 271
The Scenic Cruise
Trad 13 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 43
Atlantis
Trad 16 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 85
Lightning Bolt Crack
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 92
Astro Dog
Trad 14 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 38
Stoned Oven
Trad 13 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 39
Bone Machine
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 36
Tague Yer Time
Trad 15 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Hand Crack Taylor Canyon > First Buttress > Left Hand
 116
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Escape Artist Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > SOB Gully (skier's le…
 245
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
Sasafrass Taylor Canyon > First Buttress > Upper Wall
 56
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Journey Home Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall
 160
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Comic Relief Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > SOB Gully (skier's le…
 274
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Checkerboard Wall Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > Checkerboard Wall
 118
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
The Cruise Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall
 63
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 12 pitches
Cloaked Interpretation Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > SOB Gully (skier's le…
 55
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad 8 pitches
The Scenic Cruise Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall
 271
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 13 pitches
Atlantis Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > Prisoner of Your Hair…
 43
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad 16 pitches
Lightning Bolt Crack Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > SOB Gully (skier's le…
 85
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Astro Dog Black Canyon of… > S Rim Routes
 92
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 14 pitches
Stoned Oven Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall
 38
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 13 pitches
Bone Machine God's Crag > Creamy Salmon Wall
 39
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tague Yer Time Black Canyon of… > S Rim Routes
 36
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 15 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Gunnison »

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