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Areas in Gunnison

89 Wall, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Alpine Tunnel Palisades 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Black Canyon of the Gunnison 120 / 0 / 1 / 6 / 1 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 126
Blue Mesa Inlet 1 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Buildering 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cement Creek 2 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Gate View Canyon 10 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
God's Crag 1 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Hartman Rocks 31 / 44 / 12 / 101 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 175
Hwy 92 Cliff Band 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lamphier Lake area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 1
Lost Canyon 1 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Needle Rock 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Point, Powderhorn, Colorado (AKA Indian Creek), The 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Real Lost Canyon 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Spring Creek 18 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Taylor Canyon 58 / 26 / 5 / 68 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 151
Western State Campus 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Willow Creek 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 7,703 ft
GPS: 38.545, -106.928 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 487,314 total, 3,397/month
Shared By: John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Gunnison is a city of about 5,000 people and is located at the bottom of several valleys. Due to its location, cold air in all the valleys settles into Gunnison at night, making it one of the coldest places in Colorado if not the States.

In this area is a great variety of climbing opportunities ranging from short cragging to some of the longest rock routes in the state. In fact, the only grade VI routes in Colorado are located here.

West of the town of Gunnison is the The Black Canyon of Guninson or "The Black" as it is affectionately referred to, and is Colorado's big wall climbing destination. Land here is a combination of private, state, BLM, and federal land. Take this into consideration if you go exploring, since some locals do not take kindly to uninvited crossing of their property. Tires have been known to be slashed, cars ticketed, and climbers escorted off private land.

"The Black" is as deep as 2700 feet at its greatest depth. There are no other canyon in the country that has the same depth relative to its width as The Black and and hence it is located in the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park. The visitor guide has helpful information if you are visiting it for the first time.

Getting There

Gunnison is located on US 50 in the SW part of the state. From the east, you can drive from US 285 to US 50 over Monarch Pass (11,000 feet) and drop down into the town of Gunnison. Directions from there depend upon the exact area. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison lies West of Gunnison along US 50 for the South Rim and off CO Hwy 92 for the North Rim. From the Denver Metro area, it is 4 plus hours to Gunnison. From the West, you can access US 50 from Montrose via US 50 from the N and US 550 (the Million Dollar Hwy) from the S. From Montrose, it is an hour plus to Gunnison.

Camping and Lodging
The Tomichi Lodge (alt 10,300’), nestled in the town of Whitepine in the Gunnison National Forest, offers nearby access to The Palisades via Alpine Tunnel Road as well as numerous other climbing areas in Gunnison & Chaffee Counties. Enjoy a rustic mountain experience with some key comforts including four bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a fully stocked kitchen, indoor plumbing with hot showers and a seasonal, outdoor cowboy hot tub. Your mountain adventure basecamp awaits you.

A map of the area

605 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gunnison

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Hand Crack
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
The Maiden Voyage aka The Red Dihedral
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Air Conditioner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casually Off-Route
Trad 8 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Russian Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escape Artist
Trad 7 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Journey Home
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comic Relief
Trad 8 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Checkerboard Wall
Trad 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The Cruise
Trad 12 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The Scenic Cruise
Trad 13 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
A Midsummer's Night Dream
Trad 6 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Astro Dog
Trad 14 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stoned Oven
Trad 13 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tague Yer Time
Trad 15 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Hand Crack Taylor Canyon > First Buttress > Left Hand 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Maiden Voyage aka The R… Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > Checkerboard Wall 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Air Conditioner Taylor Canyon > First Buttress > Left Hand 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Casually Off-Route Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > SOB Gully (skier's left side) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
Russian Arete Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > Aretes 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Escape Artist Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > SOB Gully (skier's left side) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
Journey Home Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Comic Relief Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > SOB Gully (skier's left side) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Checkerboard Wall Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > Checkerboard Wall 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
The Cruise Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 12 pitches
The Scenic Cruise Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 13 pitches
A Midsummer's Night Dream Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 6 pitches
Astro Dog Black Canyon of t… > S Rim Routes 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 14 pitches
Stoned Oven Black Canyon of t… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 13 pitches
Tague Yer Time Black Canyon of t… > S Rim Routes 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 15 pitches
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Photos

Hey Gunnistoners & Crusted Butteations, I'm going to be in the area (camping at Granite campground by the 1st buttress) for the next few days. Head up and say hi, and perhaps tie in. Aug 14, 2013
Hey, all you Gunnystoners and Crusted Buteations, HEADS UP! Two remarkable shows at Neptune's. Thur. 5/19 8p Jorge & Joanne Urioste on the Early Days of climbing at Red Rock Nevada AND Fri. 5/20 7p A Tribute to Gunnison's own John (the Gambler) Rosholt.

If you can, try to be there. Check the News or Neptune's site for more info. May 18, 2011
I will be in Gunnison this weekend Sep 11. Anyone around for climbing at Hartman's? Dan (415) 845-7363. Sep 10, 2010
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
I'm really jealous, take a run up Dunn's and Left Hand for me. Jun 12, 2010
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I'm going climbing Taylor Canyon next week! It's been twenty years... so fired up! (as Doug would say) Jun 11, 2010
Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
Luke Mehall   Durango, Colorado
Hey everyone,

I'd like to extend an invitation for everyone to check out 24 Hours of Gunnison Glory, the first 24 hour climbing festival in the west. It will be at Hartmans on the 27th and 28th of June.

Also this same weekend is the Gunnison Loco Motive, Adventure Sport race: 5 miles of kayaking, 26 miles of mountain biking at Hartmans, and a 10k run. (or half that). This is all held in conjunction with the Gunnison River Festival.

Check our website(s) at:

gunnisonriverfestival.com/g…

and

gunnisonriverfestival.com/l…

or give me (Luke) a call 970-943-7053 or email: lmehall@western.edu
May 12, 2009
Lee Jenkins
Tucson, Arizona
Lee Jenkins   Tucson, Arizona
I climbed at "The Point" near Powderhorn over the weekend and am looking for some beta. There is a new route on the east end of the south face that climbs a roof (1st route you come to). Anyone know what the rating is? I thought it was .10a but it felt way harder!

I was sorry to see that this little Crag was left out of Leo's book (which I own) but can understand that he was busy getting the damn thing published. Thanks Leo for a job well done!

-Lee Aug 17, 2008
Here you go Phil:
sharpendbooks.com/cgi-bin/s… Oct 29, 2007
OK, about time now where do I get a copy here in the backwoods of Boulder????? Oct 2, 2007
It's finally out. Hundreds of new routes on my todo list now. Congrats to Leo on finally getting the guidebook published!

The book includes all those hardcore sport routes up at God's Crag along with tons of stuff in Taylor and Spring Creek canyons. Sep 21, 2007
> Gunnison is the most under-rated climbing area in all of Colorado.

You mean all the routes are super-sandbagged? :-)

Tell Sharp End to get off their ass and print up Leo's book! Apr 13, 2007
Rock n Roll Sports in Gunnison (970-641-9150) has FREE climbing guides for most of the local areas including the Ultra Sick God's Crag which features stellar bolt clipping on pocketed tuff from 5.9-5.13+. Rock n Roll also has super beta on the Black Canyon, Taylor, The Point, Spring Creek, tons of Bouldering areas, etc...

Gunnison is the most under-rated climbing area in all of Colorado. Apr 12, 2007
ropeless420
evergreen , co.
ropeless420   evergreen , co.
Hey Joe, Gunnison is a great place to climb. There are a couple of guides out, bouldering the G spot and unknown are both great. If you need a little help, go see Andy at All Sports Replay, he's a good guy and he knows the area. Sorry but gunny doesn't have any limestone, Shelf Road is the closest. Good luck. May 6, 2006
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
Are there any guidebooks with information about sport climbing and/or bouldering near Gunnison and Crested Butte? Where is the nearest limestone with lots in the 5.8-5.11, V0-V6 range? I was looking at the crags near Canon City and they look nice, is that a reasonable drive from Gunnison?

Any info is greatly appreciated. May 4, 2006

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