Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman, October, 1982
Page Views: 6,248 total · 67/month
Shared By: michalm on Aug 22, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Lightning Bolt Crack is a zig-zagging, left-leaning, overhung, rattly fingers splitter on perfect shield of golden, diamond-hard rock.

The crux is right off the ledge until a hand jam in a pod is acquired 30 feet up. This is solid, sustained, steep 5.11 crack climbing. From the handjam, steep fingers lead to good jugs (11-). After a mantel onto a shelf, more steep climbing leads to a stance (10/10+).

Location Suggest change

Begin by climbing Escape Artist or Comic Relief to the Lightning Bolt Crack ledge. In the left corner is a dirty 9+ handcrack. On the face just to the right is the Lightning Bolt Crack. You can't miss it.

Protection Suggest change

1-2x 0.4, 2x 0.5 and 2x 0.75 C4, a couple large nuts, and a hand-sized piece or two. Bring more 0.5 C4s if you don't like leaning ringlock splitters or are strong enough to sew it up.

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