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Routes in SOB Gully (skier's left side)

A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Casual Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casually Off-Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cloak & Dagger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cloaked Interpretation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comic Relief T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Debutante's Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dragon's Tooth, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape Artist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escape, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Perfect Art T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Power Lounger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Stand Up Comic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Veterans With Vertigo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Woke Up Punk T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Woke Up Trump T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman, October, 1982
Page Views: 1,017 total, 67/month
Shared By: michalm on Aug 22, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

Lightning Bolt Crack is a zig-zagging, left-leaning, overhung, rattly fingers splitter on perfect shield of golden, diamond-hard rock.

The crux is right off the ledge until a hand jam in a pod is acquired 30 feet up. This is solid, sustained, steep 5.11 crack climbing. From the handjam, steep fingers lead to good jugs (11-). After a mantel onto a shelf, more steep climbing leads to a stance (10/10+).

Location

Begin by climbing Escape Artist or Comic Relief to the Lightning Bolt Crack ledge. In the left corner is a dirty 9+ handcrack. On the face just to the right is the Lightning Bolt Crack. You can't miss it.

Protection

1-2x 0.4, 2x 0.5 and 2x 0.75 C4, a couple large nuts, and a hand-sized piece or two. Bring more 0.5 C4s if you don't like leaning ringlock splitters or are strong enough to sew it up.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Thanks for the cool history and info, Vic! I figured Ed had something to do with the first ascent. Aug 29, 2016
This pitch is part of the original Escape Artist line. FA: Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman - October, 1982

Over the years, most parties have opted for the easier "broken corner" to the left of what is now known as the Lightning Bolt Crack, dropping the overall rating of Escape Artist down to 5.9+/5.10a. However, Ed and Chester originally climbed this pitch as part of Escape Artist. They returned the next fall to climb the FA of Comic Relief in September, 1983.



Aug 25, 2016