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Routes in SOB Gully (skier's left side)

A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Casual Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casually Off-Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cloak & Dagger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cloaked Interpretation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comic Relief T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Debutante's Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dragon's Tooth, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape Artist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escape, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Perfect Art T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Power Lounger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Stand Up Comic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Veterans With Vertigo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Woke Up Punk T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Woke Up Trump T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jonathan Schaffer & Lindsey Schauer
Page Views: 2,486 total · 55/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Jun 2, 2014 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is just a continuous 5.10 route. The last pitch is the best Eldo .10+/.11- !

P3. After the 1st 2 pitches of Cloak and Dagger, head right into a walk uphill, then climb a slot to face holds and cracks to an alcove belay in a peg band, .10.

P4. Continue up another slot to easy, wide, blocky chimney like to a belay ledge, .10-.

P5. Climb more face cracks to an awkward move to a ledge jug, then continue up a finger flake to a sloped boulder on the left, belay on the other side of it and sit in the seat someone made, .10+.

P6. Climb the hand and fist crack on the left or the hard to see fingers crack to the right, not the thin corner, that would be like .12? Belay on a perch ledge, .10.

P7. Head up the awesome, leaning crack system staying out of the of the o.w. chimney and climb the leaning sporty crack out right and crimp your way back into the system,then to an easy ledgy section, and then the "Eldo-like", leaning crack and face system to a tough move or two to the belay on the top of the Comic routes, .10/.11-.

Head left to the Comic raps and up the gully to camp and beers!

Location

This starts right of Comic and shares 1st 2 pitches of Cloak & Dagger.

Protection

Doubles and 3 each of hands, #1-#4. There is absolutely no need for any big stuff!

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10d
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10d
I'm just going to add a few notes here for clarification:

Approaching this route offers some significant exposure. Having the rope on is not a bad idea. Start up CR and after 35' move right around a large boulder, and downclimb a wide slot to a grassy, sloping ledge.

P1 & 2 are the same for C&D. P1 is low-5th class. P2 is great fists to a chimney. Belay as far to the right as possible beneath the C&D crux pitch.

Move the belay right about 75' at a tree in a notch on the corner.

P3 & 4 (of Mary's description) are easily combined into one 180' foot pitch. This pitch is beautiful, sporty 5.10+ climbing that protects very well. Start up a corner/crack, and move into the face for some steep, pumpy, awesome climbing.

P5. This is another "sporty" trad pitch that is well-protected. The awkward, one or two move crux protects well with a medium-sized cam and RP. Continue up a wide chimney into a wide crack flake. Belay on a sloping ledge below the obvious wide, leaning crack.

P6. Climb the obvious wide crack and belay at the wide slot/chimney.

P7. Step right. and climb the corner/crack (we avoided the wide chimney) until you're able to step back right into the wide slot and hand crack. There really is no need for special pro on this pitch. The move that Jim describes as protected well by an offset cam protects well with a medium-sized stopper and is really just a 10a move. Belay on obvious perch/ledge after 110'.

P8. Climb up the crack. A face crux is near the top but is nowhere as difficult as the first two 5.10 pitches. Belay above on the slabs.

300' of easy climbing lead to the top of the CR buttress. Usual descent.

Fantastic route! Double rack small cams to #3 Camalot. One #4 Camalot. Plenty of stoppers from small-large. Jun 2, 2016
Lynn S
  5.10+
Lynn S  
  5.10+
Fun route, felt more difficult than Cloak and Dagger. May 29, 2016
MaryH.
Carbondale, CO
5.11-
MaryH.   Carbondale, CO
5.11-
The only addition I have is that I should have mentioned this, & my partner for this route pointed out, that we used the #5 in place of the #3 cams we forgot to bring with us on the route. THAT's why the thing came in so handy.... Aug 30, 2014
Wyatt Payne
Littleton CO
 
Wyatt Payne   Littleton CO
 
The #5 is very optional, and depending on your comfort level in short sections of steep, #4 fists that cam could be easily left on the ground as well. If you are a bit apprehensive, bring the #4. There are plenty of places to put it, but really it only came out once and that climbing could have been sufficiently protected nearby with a different size. There is no need to climb any choss unless you want to or feel it is necessary. Kristi and I linked every pitch with the exception of the very last headwall pitch. Linking pitches does take some rope trickery, but the movement on this route is so fluid and intriguing that you won't want to stop and belay.

The chimney goes very comfortably straight up and avoids you ever having to step back to the left. That did look awkward getting back into that. Get on it! Jul 31, 2014
The route name reference should be for the Swallow ArĂȘte not the Swallow Wall. Jun 27, 2014
doligo
 
doligo  
 
This route is stellar and well-protected. Do the chimney. No need for any special gear that way (no micros, no extra wide, no offsets). This route eats nuts - bring lots of slings.

#5 is not needed. I'm a girl whom #4 cracks make cry, and I sewed it up with a bomber #3 at the first wide spot and walked a #4 way up high. Some solid hand and fist jams can be found in constrictions, but mostly good cheater face holds in and out of the crack.

The only thing to add is that it's better not to belay in the alcove and link pitches 3 and 4 (the first two proper pitches on Mig's after you leave C&D) - 60m is enough. There is a lot of loose stuff on the ledge, so if you belay there, you'll be hosing your second. If you link, do not leave gear down low in the alcove (for the same reason). The move out of it is 5.8ish, then it's low fifth class to the base of discontinued cracks. Jun 21, 2014
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
 
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
 
#5, huh? Jun 16, 2014
MaryH.
Carbondale, CO
5.11-
MaryH.   Carbondale, CO
5.11-
To add on to the description (although the topo covers some of this):

Pitches 1 and 2 are the 5.6 and the 5.9 of Cloak and Dagger.

Do a few moves traversing right of the stellar crux pitch of Cloak and Dagger, walking up hill to the black-streaked slot with a blocky face above. Pitch 3 is the black-streaked slot to blocky face. Belay in alcove, as noted by Jay Brown.

Pitch 4. I thought this pitch was more of a 5.8+. After about 25 feet of climbing up the obvious black-colored slot, you will have a choice to go right or left; GO RIGHT. The climbing looks aesthetically better to the left, but the choss-filled chimney to the right is the way to go. Belay on the first obvious ledge you come to that looks good to belay at.

Pitch 5. Walk 15 feet to the right of the belay. Here, start face climbing up a dark brown face and broken rock. It looks improbable, but it goes. There is a slot up to a stance. My partner and I got off route here and ended up just climbers' left of this pitch. We actually did a great variation, also on broken rock and challenging face climbing. We call this the "Birthday Party Variation", and it goes at 5.11. Either way, you end up at the base of the beautiful, wide crack on dark rock on the face or a hard-to-see finger crack on the face way right, next to the thin corner crack. I agree with Jim Donini that this pitch can be broken into 2.

Pitch 6. A beautiful, wide crack through a mini roof and then up through Lumpy- Ridge-ish rock. Unless you think tight #5 cams are fist cracks, and #4s are hand cracks, I would say that this crack is definitely wider than "hands and fists." The first 40 feet through the mini-roof are protected by #4 and a #5 cam. The tricky bit about this crack is that you can literally face climb through the mini-roof, so look around for the face holds when at the roof. Once over the roof, look for jugs and excellent feet to take you up into a twin crack, then use both cracks and the overlap to continue up to the "perch", beneath a huge, angling chimney.

Pitch 7. We broke this into 2 pitches - we were a little lean on gear and we were afraid we wouldn't have enough for the "Eldo-like" crack above on the headwall, but first: the huge, angling chimney. This chimney looks and climbs like something you'd see in Red Rocks, with plenty of gear (#1-4 cams) throughout. Continue up the right-arching, perfect hand crack for another 30 feet, and belay atop a block above and left of the arching hand crack.

Pitch 8. We also discovered we had 2 choices: you can either continue up the "Eldo-like" climbing on the dark brown headwall, or you can go left. We explored both choices and discovered that going left takes you to the "unroping ledge" of Comic Relief or Cloak and Dagger, while the headwall takes you almost right next to the rap station.

My only gear add-on is a #5 Cam. We hauled that thing up and used it on almost every pitch, and we were glad we had it!

Enjoy! Jun 16, 2014
Just did this climb last week...loved it. Excellent rock, more intriguing and continuous climbing than Cloak and Dagger. A few bushes to get through that will clean up with more ascents. Found the next to largest size of new BD offset cams important to protect traverse back into chimney on last pitch.
Do it!
Additional description for pitch five: you will be at the base of a flared, right-leaning chimney...do not climb it, climb the discontinuous, thin crack system to the right for 35/40 feet then traverse back left into the top of the chimney...this is where the offset cam is useful. There is a nice ledge in the middle of this pitch and it might be preferable to do it in two pitches.
Stays in the shade until midday. Jun 3, 2014

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