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Routes in SOB Gully (skier's left side)

A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Casual Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casually Off-Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cloak & Dagger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cloaked Interpretation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comic Relief T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Debutante's Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dragon's Tooth, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape Artist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escape, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Perfect Art T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Power Lounger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Stand Up Comic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Veterans With Vertigo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Woke Up Punk T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Woke Up Trump T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Art Wiggins?
Page Views: 1,014 total · 23/month
Shared By: Matt Pesce on Aug 23, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This striking right-facing corner/fingers splitter capped by roof is the landmark feature. It is obvious from the approach to Comic Relief, Cloak & Dagger. Above the splitter is a steep slab with an incipient crack with RPs for pro.

P1: climb P1 of Cloak & Dagger to nice ledge below a pegmatite roof left of Cloak & Dagger corner, 5.9+, 180'.

P2: climb left-leaning chimney/slab to nice ledge below obvious finger crack/ corner capped by rectangular roof, 5.11a, 70'.

P3: ascend a fingers/tips splitter/layback corner passing fixed nuts under roof, pass roof to the right with hands/thin hands. There is a fixed nut belay, 5.11+, 80'.

P4: climb a steep, slabby seam to stance at top of P4 of Comic Relief, 5.12b, 90'.


The obvious fingers splitter/corner is the landmark for this stellar route.


Mostly small stuff, some hands/big hands for chimney, fist crack, and bring RPs for sure.


- No Photos -
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
Pitch 3 is really fun! I didn't have the balls for pitch 4. I escaped by climbing over to the black corner on Comic Relief. Sep 4, 2014
RyanO   sunshine
The links to "CR" in this description lead to the Casual Route page instead of Comic Relief. Oct 24, 2014
Some notes:

P1: I did this differently than described above, but they get you to the same place. I did the crack that starts a few feet down and left of the initial 9+ chimney on Cloak and Dagger. It's a burly fist crack move to start, but the rest of the pitch is really neat. I ran the rope out all the way to a stance below the 11a roof with no rope drag, 10+.

P2: with a lot of runners and confidence, this could be combined with the first pitch with a 70m rope. Probably better to break it up anyway. 11a roof is fun and well-protected. A fairly short pitch. Nice, big belay ledge below the obvious splitter, 11a.

P3: classic splitter into a corner. Pass the fixed anchor, and turn the roof on hand jams. Jam another few moves to a stance with a fixed wire. The belay stance is exposed and neat but very uncomfortable. Those who lower off of the fixed anchor and escape back to Comic Relief are missing out on a cool roof move and a great P4... 11c.

P4: a test of your small wire dinking ability. Bring a healthy amount of them - offsets useful. There are also a few mid-sized cam placements to be had along the way. The pin at the top of the seam is junky, and you can pull it out with your hands. I wish I would've just taken it out, because there's nasty looking tat on it too that just mars the aesthetic of the crack. There are bomber small cams and wires below and above the pin. The traverse right is very thin, but it goes, and you are essentially on top rope for it. After the traverse, move up, clip a fixed blade, move back down and rightm and bust up a fun left angling finger/hand crack (10-) to a nice alcove with great thin hand/ wide finger sized gear for anchors, 12b.

P5: one could combine this with the previous pitch, but I think it's better to break them up. Climb up and left out of the alcove in a nice crack then up through many bushes. This deposits you on the big ledge of Cloak and Dagger, not Comic as in the original description here, 10-.

From here, you could do any number of things. Of note is that you can traverse left (waaay left) from the C&D ledge passing a little dirty boulder problem then a nice 5.8 crack to the top of the lighting bolt crack pitch on Comic. This is a good option if there is a party on C&D above you and if you don't have the time/energy to finish on Cloaked Interpretation (which would be the best finish).

This route is excellent and should get done more often in its entirety. I only saw chalk on the 11+ splitter, but the crux had obviously seen some passage as the key footholds were pretty clean. The crux is totally safe, and you could essentially toprope yourself up it if you wanted to. Nov 15, 2016
chris righter
chris righter  
I'm surprised this route doesn't get more love. It's one of the better low commitment 5.12- routes in the Canyon. The 11+ pitch before the crux is awesome, and the 12- pitch is pretty short lived with some bouldery slab action. The fixed pin is gone, but there is bomber fixed nut now. If you do this route, finishing on Cloacked Interpretation is highly recommended for the ultimate link up on the wall, which we dubbed "Almost Perfect Interpretation". Jul 15, 2017

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