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Routes in SOB Gully (skier's left side)

A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Casual Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casually Off-Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cloak & Dagger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cloaked Interpretation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comic Relief T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Debutante's Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dragon's Tooth, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape Artist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escape, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Perfect Art T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Power Lounger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Stand Up Comic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Veterans With Vertigo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Woke Up Punk T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Woke Up Trump T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 1200 ft, 8 pitches
FA: FA of linkup pitches - Bryce Lokey
Page Views: 1,438 total · 52/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Oct 17, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

While just a linkup, this route climbs the best terrain on Cloak and Dagger and Mig's Arete, giving sustained fun climbing.

Climb the first four pitches of Cloak and Dagger, and belay on the right side of the large ledge at the top of the second 5.10 pitch.

Climb up and right for 70 feet or so to an obvious ledge that extends to the arete. Move right on this ledge, and belay below a thin crack through an overlap that is about 10 feet from the arete, 5.6 or so.

Fire through the overlap, and continue up the thin crack for about 30 feet until it is possible to step right into a dihedral on the arete. Loosely follow this dihedral until it ends at a slightly ledgy section. Locate some incipient seams just left of the arete, arrange some protection, and fire up them until a ledge system leads right around the arete to the base of the flare on Mig's Arete, 100 feet, 5.10+ PG-13.

Now just follow the last fantastic pitch (or two) of Mig's Arete to the top.

Protection

Standard Black Canyon rack.

Photos

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Chris Dickson
Telluride, Colorado
  5.10+
Chris Dickson   Telluride, Colorado
  5.10+
This is my new favorite route in the Black. The second pitch of Cloak and Dagger is maybe the best pitch I've done in the canyon, and the final two pitches of Mig's (we broke it into two 30m pitches) provide incredible movement in an insanely cool position. Also, the 10+ link-up pitch features good gear and fun face climbing. Finally, the sustained nature of the climbing (pitches are 9+, 10+, 10, 10+, 10, 10+) gives you the best bang-for-your-buck of any climb on the Comic Buttress in my opinion. To echo Vic's comment, this thing is destined to be CLASSIC. Sep 9, 2016
Vic Zeilman  
 
This is an exceptional linkup. Sure to become the classic route at the grade on the buttress. Didn't get to climb the Lokey-Righter independent pitch, but it is also possible to simply move around the corner of the arĂȘte (another 10-20' right, through a bush) to the base of the beautiful fist-to-hand crack on P6 on Migs ArĂȘte. Very high quality and stacked with 5 or 6 pitches of 5.9+ to 5.10+. Jul 9, 2016