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Routes in SOB Gully (skier's left side)
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A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Casual Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Casually Off-Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cloak & Dagger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cloaked Interpretation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Comic 2.0 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Comic Relief T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Debutante's Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dragon's Tooth, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Escape Artist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Escape, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Perfect Art T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Power Lounger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Stand Up Comic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X |
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Veterans With Vertigo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Woke Up Punk T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Woke Up Trump T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches |
| FA: | Schaffer, Zeilman, April 2012 |
| Page Views: | 9,683 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | Vic Zeilman on May 2, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Cloak & Dagger takes an independent line right of Comic Relief and Perfect Art, but starts on the same ledge as Comic or Escape Artist.
It's highly probably that some of these pitches have been climbed before. However, it's unclear if anyone has done this exact line. While talking with a few of the more seasoned veterians of the Black, it appears that at least a few pitches were new territory. Thumbing through the binder of original topos provided no descriptions of this area right of Comic Relief. Any additional info would be welcomed.
One thing is for certain though, despite who climbed what and when... this is a hidden gem of a route, worthy of more traffic and a great alternative to Comic Relief or Escape Artist.
P1 (5.6ish). Start on the Comic/Escape ledge and traverse right around the corner to an obvious pegmatite slab/gully. Follow this rib of peg to a ledge below a chimney and a fist crack on the left. Some parties may choose to free solo.
P2 (5.9+). Climb the fist crack and continue through the chimney to another small ledge below a nice looking, thin fingers dihedral.
P3 (5.10+). Climb the dihedral, leading through a small bulge and continue up a 5.9 crack system to a belay beneath an obvious, crescent-shaped roof with black streaks on the wall.
P4 (5.10). Move left under the roof on good hand jams and continue up a 5.9 crack until you can move left into a lower angle weakness. Follow this to a large ledge with a massive, right-facing corner. Beware of the rope wanting to get sucked into the corner of the roof as you climb above it. Try and place a piece out left to keep the rope out of the constriction.
P5 (5.9). Climb 5.7 face up to a steep 5.9 hand crack. Trend left through a giant flake feature, then pull steep moves through a second flake above (left). End at a stance near 60 meters.
P6 (5.9). Continue up somewhat nondescript crack and face climbing. At about 40 meters or so, start trending left until you intersect the top of Comic/Escape's final pitch. End on the unroping ledge for these two route. Scramble up to the rap stations and complete the exact same "descent" as Comic Relief or Escape Artist.
It is also well worth it to do "The Escape" pitches back to the rim, instead of hiking out the gully. After rappelling from the top of the Comic Buttress, climb from the notch, up a slab and onto a ridge line type feature for 2 or 3 pitches (up to 5.8) to top out near the overlook trail by the campground. You get awesome views of South Chasm Wall.
It's highly probably that some of these pitches have been climbed before. However, it's unclear if anyone has done this exact line. While talking with a few of the more seasoned veterians of the Black, it appears that at least a few pitches were new territory. Thumbing through the binder of original topos provided no descriptions of this area right of Comic Relief. Any additional info would be welcomed.
One thing is for certain though, despite who climbed what and when... this is a hidden gem of a route, worthy of more traffic and a great alternative to Comic Relief or Escape Artist.
P1 (5.6ish). Start on the Comic/Escape ledge and traverse right around the corner to an obvious pegmatite slab/gully. Follow this rib of peg to a ledge below a chimney and a fist crack on the left. Some parties may choose to free solo.
P2 (5.9+). Climb the fist crack and continue through the chimney to another small ledge below a nice looking, thin fingers dihedral.
P3 (5.10+). Climb the dihedral, leading through a small bulge and continue up a 5.9 crack system to a belay beneath an obvious, crescent-shaped roof with black streaks on the wall.
P4 (5.10). Move left under the roof on good hand jams and continue up a 5.9 crack until you can move left into a lower angle weakness. Follow this to a large ledge with a massive, right-facing corner. Beware of the rope wanting to get sucked into the corner of the roof as you climb above it. Try and place a piece out left to keep the rope out of the constriction.
P5 (5.9). Climb 5.7 face up to a steep 5.9 hand crack. Trend left through a giant flake feature, then pull steep moves through a second flake above (left). End at a stance near 60 meters.
P6 (5.9). Continue up somewhat nondescript crack and face climbing. At about 40 meters or so, start trending left until you intersect the top of Comic/Escape's final pitch. End on the unroping ledge for these two route. Scramble up to the rap stations and complete the exact same "descent" as Comic Relief or Escape Artist.
It is also well worth it to do "The Escape" pitches back to the rim, instead of hiking out the gully. After rappelling from the top of the Comic Buttress, climb from the notch, up a slab and onto a ridge line type feature for 2 or 3 pitches (up to 5.8) to top out near the overlook trail by the campground. You get awesome views of South Chasm Wall.
Location
Use the same approach as Comic Relief and Escape Artist. Descend the SOB Gully. Once you're about 2/3 of the way to the river, locate the buttress on skier's left and 4th class up to the ledge which starts both of these routes. Cloak & Dagger traverses around the corner to a pegmatite slab/gully and takes off from there.
Photos
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