Elevation: 7,785 ft
GPS: 38.581, -107.715 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 73,031 total · 307/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: 2019 July South Casm View Wall closure lifted. Prior: Rockfall potential closes some routes! Details

Description

Coming soon...

[This side of the impressive Black Canyon of the Gunnison is known for its foreboding, long routes with chillier temperatures. Since the canyon is quite steep and quite narrow, these routes have a much darker ambience than some of the neighboring walls across the water. In fact, these factors may have slowed the exploration of these walls during the early years of climbing here. The one advantage to climbing on this side is that access is somewhat easier.

All routes here should be considered adventure climbing with challenging rock, rock quality, route finding, runouts, etc.. Assistance, in the event of the unexpected, is difficult to non-existent. Be prepared.

As with most climbing in the area, poison ivy and ticks are hazards during the non-climbing times of your visits here. Some folks have been even known to wear disposable Tivek suits to avoid these diminuitive demons.

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Getting There

Coming soon...

The Black Canyon of Gunninson is located approximately 250 miles SW of Denver.

South Rim: 15 miles east of Montrose, via U.S. Hwy 50 and CO Hwy 347

[From Steve Levin: For routes on the main SCVW a viable access is via the "Astro Slog" raps (see the topo under the Astro Dog route description). The start is upriver a few feet from the overlook, at a boulder. Two ropes are required. This has cleaned up a bit, the anchors are good, and most are easy to locate. Try to trend more climbers-right at the bottom, lest you stray into the super-munge to the left. Plan on 2-3 hours. A second option is to descend the Cruise Gully and cross the river via the tyrolean located below NCVW, then have someone meet you on the South Rim with a car. This strategy works best if you arrange for attractive members of the opposite sex to pick you up, and if they have a picnic lunch and a nice, chilled white wine. Other options exist.]

[From Charles Vernon: The latter part of this descent, from the saddle behind the pinnacle, is obvious and looks reasonable (except perhaps for the 5.7 slabs above the river) from the North Rim. However, I'm inclined to assume that the upper gully does not exist as described (I've seen it from the South side, and been down the gully just west to the Alimony Wall, but it is hard to tell how far the first gully goes before cliffing out), since I've never heard of it anywhere else and it sounds too good to be true! Oddly, the only other method for reaching SCVW mentioned in Rock Climbing Colorado is via the Chillumstone Gully, which would require river crossings. In the new guidebook, neither of these methods are mentioned, while three others are described(rappelling, tyrolean, and SOFB raps).]
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25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Rim Routes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 31
Blackjack
Trad 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
 14
Flakes, The
Trad 14 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Black Shadow Arete
Trad 8 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
Last Payment
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
 19
Crystal Vision
Trad 12 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Dark Star
Trad 13 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
Black Snake
Trad 8 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
El Padre
Trad 12 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 67
Astro Dog
Trad 14 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 3
Flapjack
Trad 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
The Quota
Trad 6 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 28
Tague Yer Time
Trad 15 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 7
Event Horizon
Trad 14 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Blackjack
 31
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Flakes, The
 14
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X Trad 14 pitches
Black Shadow Arete
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 8 pitches
Last Payment
 14
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Crystal Vision
 19
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 12 pitches
Dark Star
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 13 pitches
Black Snake
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 8 pitches
El Padre
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 12 pitches
Astro Dog
 67
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 14 pitches
Flapjack
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
The Quota
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 6 pitches
Tague Yer Time
 28
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 15 pitches
Event Horizon
 7
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 14 pitches
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