South Rim Routes Rock Climbing
|GPS:||38.581, -107.715 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||73,031 total · 307/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
History (Admin Only): Leo Paik edited this area Jul 3, 2019
For more information Visit: nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
5.11+ Alternate Start
Tague Yer Time
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
[This side of the impressive Black Canyon of the Gunnison is known for its foreboding, long routes with chillier temperatures. Since the canyon is quite steep and quite narrow, these routes have a much darker ambience than some of the neighboring walls across the water. In fact, these factors may have slowed the exploration of these walls during the early years of climbing here. The one advantage to climbing on this side is that access is somewhat easier.
All routes here should be considered adventure climbing with challenging rock, rock quality, route finding, runouts, etc.. Assistance, in the event of the unexpected, is difficult to non-existent. Be prepared.
As with most climbing in the area, poison ivy and ticks are hazards during the non-climbing times of your visits here. Some folks have been even known to wear disposable Tivek suits to avoid these diminuitive demons.
Eds. If anyone wishes to submit a description here, we can add it here, change the name of the submitter]
The Black Canyon of Gunninson is located approximately 250 miles SW of Denver.
South Rim: 15 miles east of Montrose, via U.S. Hwy 50 and CO Hwy 347
[From Steve Levin: For routes on the main SCVW a viable access is via the "Astro Slog" raps (see the topo under the Astro Dog route description). The start is upriver a few feet from the overlook, at a boulder. Two ropes are required. This has cleaned up a bit, the anchors are good, and most are easy to locate. Try to trend more climbers-right at the bottom, lest you stray into the super-munge to the left. Plan on 2-3 hours. A second option is to descend the Cruise Gully and cross the river via the tyrolean located below NCVW, then have someone meet you on the South Rim with a car. This strategy works best if you arrange for attractive members of the opposite sex to pick you up, and if they have a picnic lunch and a nice, chilled white wine. Other options exist.]
[From Charles Vernon: The latter part of this descent, from the saddle behind the pinnacle, is obvious and looks reasonable (except perhaps for the 5.7 slabs above the river) from the North Rim. However, I'm inclined to assume that the upper gully does not exist as described (I've seen it from the South side, and been down the gully just west to the Alimony Wall, but it is hard to tell how far the first gully goes before cliffing out), since I've never heard of it anywhere else and it sounds too good to be true! Oddly, the only other method for reaching SCVW mentioned in Rock Climbing Colorado is via the Chillumstone Gully, which would require river crossings. In the new guidebook, neither of these methods are mentioned, while three others are described(rappelling, tyrolean, and SOFB raps).]
[Eds. If anyone wishes to submit a description here, we can add it here, change the name of the submitter]
Classic Climbing Routes at South Rim Routes
Days w Precip