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South Rim Routes Rock Climbing
Routes in South Rim Routes
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Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blackjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Chimney Chunga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C0-1 PG13 |
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Crystalvision T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Dark Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fade to Black T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Image of the Invisible T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Last Payment T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Steppin' Out T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Way Of The Ancients T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Elevation: | 7,785 ft | 2,373 m |
| GPS: |
38.5811, -107.71539 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 105,123 total · 360/month | |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2019 July South Casm View Wall closure lifted. Prior: Rockfall potential closes some routes!
Details
Per Matt Lisenby: South Chasm View closure is lifted.
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
Description
Coming soon...
[This side of the impressive Black Canyon of the Gunnison is known for its foreboding, long routes with chillier temperatures. Since the canyon is quite steep and quite narrow, these routes have a much darker ambience than some of the neighboring walls across the water. In fact, these factors may have slowed the exploration of these walls during the early years of climbing here. The one advantage to climbing on this side is that access is somewhat easier.
All routes here should be considered adventure climbing with challenging rock, rock quality, route finding, runouts, etc.. Assistance, in the event of the unexpected, is difficult to non-existent. Be prepared.
As with most climbing in the area, poison ivy and ticks are hazards during the non-climbing times of your visits here. Some folks have been even known to wear disposable Tivek suits to avoid these diminuitive demons.
Eds. If anyone wishes to submit a description here, we can add it here, change the name of the submitter]
[This side of the impressive Black Canyon of the Gunnison is known for its foreboding, long routes with chillier temperatures. Since the canyon is quite steep and quite narrow, these routes have a much darker ambience than some of the neighboring walls across the water. In fact, these factors may have slowed the exploration of these walls during the early years of climbing here. The one advantage to climbing on this side is that access is somewhat easier.
All routes here should be considered adventure climbing with challenging rock, rock quality, route finding, runouts, etc.. Assistance, in the event of the unexpected, is difficult to non-existent. Be prepared.
As with most climbing in the area, poison ivy and ticks are hazards during the non-climbing times of your visits here. Some folks have been even known to wear disposable Tivek suits to avoid these diminuitive demons.
Eds. If anyone wishes to submit a description here, we can add it here, change the name of the submitter]
Getting There
Coming soon...
The Black Canyon of Gunninson is located approximately 250 miles SW of Denver.
South Rim: 15 miles east of Montrose, via U.S. Hwy 50 and CO Hwy 347
[From Steve Levin: For routes on the main SCVW a viable access is via the "Astro Slog" raps (see the topo under the Astro Dog route description). The start is upriver a few feet from the overlook, at a boulder. Two ropes are required. This has cleaned up a bit, the anchors are good, and most are easy to locate. Try to trend more climbers-right at the bottom, lest you stray into the super-munge to the left. Plan on 2-3 hours. A second option is to descend the Cruise Gully and cross the river via the tyrolean located below NCVW, then have someone meet you on the South Rim with a car. This strategy works best if you arrange for attractive members of the opposite sex to pick you up, and if they have a picnic lunch and a nice, chilled white wine. Other options exist.]
[From Charles Vernon: The latter part of this descent, from the saddle behind the pinnacle, is obvious and looks reasonable (except perhaps for the 5.7 slabs above the river) from the North Rim. However, I'm inclined to assume that the upper gully does not exist as described (I've seen it from the South side, and been down the gully just west to the Alimony Wall, but it is hard to tell how far the first gully goes before cliffing out), since I've never heard of it anywhere else and it sounds too good to be true! Oddly, the only other method for reaching SCVW mentioned in Rock Climbing Colorado is via the Chillumstone Gully, which would require river crossings. In the new guidebook, neither of these methods are mentioned, while three others are described(rappelling, tyrolean, and SOFB raps).]
[Eds. If anyone wishes to submit a description here, we can add it here, change the name of the submitter]
The Black Canyon of Gunninson is located approximately 250 miles SW of Denver.
South Rim: 15 miles east of Montrose, via U.S. Hwy 50 and CO Hwy 347
[From Steve Levin: For routes on the main SCVW a viable access is via the "Astro Slog" raps (see the topo under the Astro Dog route description). The start is upriver a few feet from the overlook, at a boulder. Two ropes are required. This has cleaned up a bit, the anchors are good, and most are easy to locate. Try to trend more climbers-right at the bottom, lest you stray into the super-munge to the left. Plan on 2-3 hours. A second option is to descend the Cruise Gully and cross the river via the tyrolean located below NCVW, then have someone meet you on the South Rim with a car. This strategy works best if you arrange for attractive members of the opposite sex to pick you up, and if they have a picnic lunch and a nice, chilled white wine. Other options exist.]
[From Charles Vernon: The latter part of this descent, from the saddle behind the pinnacle, is obvious and looks reasonable (except perhaps for the 5.7 slabs above the river) from the North Rim. However, I'm inclined to assume that the upper gully does not exist as described (I've seen it from the South side, and been down the gully just west to the Alimony Wall, but it is hard to tell how far the first gully goes before cliffing out), since I've never heard of it anywhere else and it sounds too good to be true! Oddly, the only other method for reaching SCVW mentioned in Rock Climbing Colorado is via the Chillumstone Gully, which would require river crossings. In the new guidebook, neither of these methods are mentioned, while three others are described(rappelling, tyrolean, and SOFB raps).]
[Eds. If anyone wishes to submit a description here, we can add it here, change the name of the submitter]
Classic Climbing Routes at South Rim Routes
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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