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Routes in South Rim Routes

Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackjack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crystal Vision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dark Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Falcon Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Payment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Tim Kuss & James Williamson
Page Views: 1,129 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bryan Gilmore on Oct 12, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a compelling route judging from the topo.... 4 pitches of 5.11 in a row, mostly cracks, but a good facey pitch. You know, hey let's go do Flapjack. Now, just head down the Chillumstone (one 70m fine). Well, topos don't tell the whole story- crappy rock on p2 makes for a tedious pitch, it's hard right were the rock is bad and whoever put the route up drilled 1/4" threaded bolts. Anyway, it's an ok route, and the climbing would be really good if it was on splitter stone.

Location

Go down Chillumstone, do the rap (single 70m is perfect) and head across the ledge heading toward Blackjack, it has some 5th class moves that would be bad if anything happened, easy to rope up if desired. Start in a small, left-facing corner approximately 100m below and to the left of Blackjack. Look for some bolts about 70' up trending rightward. Top out on some ledgey terrain and either head up staying right on ridge (recommended and exposed) or venture into the oak and bushwhack up the gully to your right. Gandalf's Beard is on the wall across the gully.

Protection

Standard rack with extras in 1"-1.5" and thin hands, we brought 1 each #3 & #4 Camalot. Lots of long runners help because of the traversing nature of the route. Again, the lead bolts are 1/4" threaded, but the belay bolts are beefier.

Photos

Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
  5.11+
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
  5.11+
The first real pitch, the 11+, is bouldery and cool. Hard moves. Good quality stone. The second 5.11 pitch, steep hands, is good climbing, but the rock is poor and birdshit is everywhere! Breathe deeply... the rest of the route is ok. I think it's a good route to do once if you've done everything else on the S. Rim. Definitely would not do it again, but it is not a bad day out. Aug 25, 2014
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
FA: Tim Kuss & James Williamson. Jun 7, 2011