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Routes in South Rim Routes
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Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blackjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Crystal Vision T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Dark Star T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Image of the Invisible T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Last Payment T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Steppin' Out T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Way Of The Ancients T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 2000 ft (606 m), 14 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Robert Warren, Peter Gallagher 1986 |
| Page Views: | 32,786 total · 130/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Sep 1, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2019 July South Casm View Wall closure lifted. Prior: Rockfall potential closes some routes!
Details
Per Matt Lisenby: South Chasm View closure is lifted.
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
Description
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
Astro Dog is considered a mega-classic route in the Black Canyon. Reading this, I was wondering why we only saw chalk on one pitch of the whole climb! The rock on Astro Dog is generally of very good quality except for the last couple pitches. The route offers stunning views in every direction, especially of the North Chasm View Wall.
The climbing follows cracks mostly and some face pitches to give your hands and feet a rest. The route is very sustained in the 5.10 grade and expect a number of 200' pitches. Also, expect an occasional runout and wide section. Route finding is a little tricky, but you more or less wander your way up the major weakness of the buttress. The two boulder bivy ledge located conveniently in the middle of the climb is a good place to spend the night. It sleeps one very comfortably and the other spot is slightly less comfortable. The ledge is big enough to unrope and cook dinner on, although I wouldn't recommend playing frisbee on it. The rappels wander back and forth quite a bit and they are easy to miss. Some are very difficult to reach while rapping with a haulbag. It is possible to rap to the Two Boulder Bivy Ledge and climb up from there for a shorter day.
To do this route in a day, I would recommend being fast at back to back ropestretcher pitches of 5.10. Fortunately, the route is only in the sun for a couple hours in the morning. Enjoy!!!
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
Astro Dog is considered a mega-classic route in the Black Canyon. Reading this, I was wondering why we only saw chalk on one pitch of the whole climb! The rock on Astro Dog is generally of very good quality except for the last couple pitches. The route offers stunning views in every direction, especially of the North Chasm View Wall.
The climbing follows cracks mostly and some face pitches to give your hands and feet a rest. The route is very sustained in the 5.10 grade and expect a number of 200' pitches. Also, expect an occasional runout and wide section. Route finding is a little tricky, but you more or less wander your way up the major weakness of the buttress. The two boulder bivy ledge located conveniently in the middle of the climb is a good place to spend the night. It sleeps one very comfortably and the other spot is slightly less comfortable. The ledge is big enough to unrope and cook dinner on, although I wouldn't recommend playing frisbee on it. The rappels wander back and forth quite a bit and they are easy to miss. Some are very difficult to reach while rapping with a haulbag. It is possible to rap to the Two Boulder Bivy Ledge and climb up from there for a shorter day.
To do this route in a day, I would recommend being fast at back to back ropestretcher pitches of 5.10. Fortunately, the route is only in the sun for a couple hours in the morning. Enjoy!!!
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