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Routes in South Rim Routes

Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackjack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crystal Vision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dark Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Falcon Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Payment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jason Nelson, Jack Jefferies, Cody Sims
Page Views: 181 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jason Nelson on Aug 28, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pent Up is a nice, shorter outing up a prominent buttress. The route features excellent belay ledges and good climbing in a nice position. The first few pitches get you warmed up for the crux which climbs through some of the best pegmatite in the canyon.

The story behind the route...the magazines probably did a better job of describing the ascent then I could, so see the links below.

All of the pitches are about 100 feet in length.

Pitch 1 (5.6) - Climb blocks and bushes to big ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.9) - Climb painted double cracks in corner to big ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.10) - Mr. Crumblies. Climb steep hands and wider on the right side of the buttress. Don't go up the prominent corner to the right. At the top of the crack, a ramp leads you back to the center of the buttress.

Pitch 4 (5.10) - A tricky move up a ramp to the left leads to a right facing corner, then continue to a steep hand crack which turns to a chimney and ends on a big ledge.

Pitch 5 (5.12c) - The Mexican Standoff. Begin on the thin cracks on the left side of the buttress. Follow this to a roof with a bolt which is the crux. Continue up on sustained climbing passing another bolt. Once above the pegmatite band, traverse left toward the arete to a small ledge/stance with a bolt. The bolt is for the belay and can be backed up with small cams. Gear: lots of small cams up to a #2 Camalot, stoppers, and runners.

Pitch 6 (5.11) - Climb the seam with thin gear to a bolt on the arete. Then move right to a shallow, left-facing corner with a seam and follow it to a big ledge. Bring small gear, but some hand-size pieces are needed for the belay.

Pitch 7 (5.11) - Climb the right-facing corner past a bush under a large A-shaped roof. Exit the off-width roof and belay in the chimney above or at the top of the wall.

Write ups:
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/pent_up_in_the_black_canyon_-_new_512_added_to_colorados_somber_gorge/

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/newswire-black-canyon-pent-up

Location

The Chillumstone Gully trail begins after Devil's Lookout (park here) walk down towards South Chasm View, but just after a yellow road curves sign, look for a faint trail in the bushes. Descend the gully to just above the Chillumstone rappels, where the route is to left as you descend on a prominent buttress. Pent Up is in between the large chimney and Don't Count Your Lily Pads. Ascend gullies to the base of the route. Another option is to locate the route from above (the big chasm to the left of the route makes finding it reasonable) and fix lines.

Protection

Double Set of Cams to #4 Camalot. Single set of stoppers. Extra hand size pieces would be helpful for the belays. One each #5 and #6 Camalot which are only used on the last pitch. Stoppers are only needed for pitches 5 and 6.

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