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Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackjack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crystal Vision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dark Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Falcon Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Payment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Leonard Coyne and Dennis Jackson?
Page Views: 3,195 total, 16/month
Shared By: Joe Gartner on Sep 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

Blackjack is the very prominent left-facing dihedral on the south rim. The feature is very striking and the climbing is pretty good too. Go down the Chillumstone Gully and head skier's left or climber's right shortly after the rappel. Third and fourth-class ledges reach the base of the route (best to scope this from the north rim first).

P1: 5.9 cracks go up and left to gain the base of the huge dihedral.

P2: Climb the dihedral at 5.8?? I can't really remember.

P3: Climb a good stretch of 5.8 offwidth that is somewhat protectable (Nick placed the #4 too early on and ran it out considerably afterwards though he did get some smaller gear).

P4: Climb up to the roof slot. Turn it on the left at easy 5.10 and head up and left to a hanging gear belay. Resist the temptation to stretch it out to the ledge higher up for there isn't really a ledge and no gear for an anchor.

P5: Climb up and left to gain vertical dirt and stretch rope to a belay of your choice.

P6: From here you follow a few hundred feet of ledges and short 5th-class sections along a ridge to reach the rim.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #4 or #4.5 Camalot.

Approach

Per Lisa Montgomery: from the Visitor's Center, park in a small, right-side pullout at the 20mph curvy road sign in between Devil's Lookout and Chasm View Overlook. A well-trodden trail descends right from here down the Chillumstone Gully. Descend several hundred feet down the gully (takes longer than you might expect), until you get cliffed out. Locate a rappel anchor on the right wall with a fixed line (didn't need 2 ropes as it turned out). From this rappel anchor, you can scope Blackjack, which is across the gully on the far right side of the wall. Once off rappel and underneath the "Chockstone," walk across the gully and climb up low, somewhat exposed 5th class. Walk across a very large, grassy terrace toward the wall, eventually heading up and around the right side of the wall. The picture John Peterson took looking up the first pitch was especially helpful in locating the start of the route.
Fritz N.
Durango, CO
  5.9+
Fritz N.   Durango, CO
  5.9+
Fun route! A couple months ago, we set out for Blackjack and accidentally got on one of the abandoned lines mentioned in the new book. We bailed four pitches up in the face of unprotected 5.11+ face, rapped down and walk-of-shamed back up Chillumstone.

This time was much better.

Approach: 1:40 to the base of P1. We pitched out a 5.6 handcrack just after the fixed line rap.

P1: good burly handjamming in a flare.
P2: short, easy chimney with face holds to jamming and stemming. Awkward wide move over a bulge dumps you onto the belay ledge.
P3: wide corner with plentiful face holds. I placed a #11 hex and old #4 Camalot, but you could easily place other gear and not bring them. I stopped at the optional belay below the roof.
P4: roof (awkward but no harder than 5.9), a splitter handcrack and a couple steep moves on jugs, then 4th class dirt and bushes. I ran this pitch for a full 70m, then we moved the belay fifty feet up and right.
P5: Short, easy pitch to gain the start of the ridgeline.

From the top of P5, we changed back into approach shoes and scrambled a hundred feet of third and fourth class, then ran four short, ropedraggy pitches along the ridge. Most of the time the rope is unnecessary, but there are a few high-consequence moves, so we kept it out.

There's a fixed line up a mini-tower along the way. Great views compensate for rope drag and bushes.

In early October, we started hiking at 06:30 and stayed in the shade for all but one pitch on the ridge. Eight hours car-to-car at a leisurely pace. Definitely worth doing once. Oct 8, 2017
Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10-
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10-
Climbed Blackjack on Monday 10/10/2016. To try and help with the confusion about where the gully is, it is definitely at the pullout by the 20 mph sign. The ranger at the Visitor's Center said the (old) book was correct, but we didn't listen to him. Took us about 1 hr to get to the rappel, and there was a fixed line there. Total approach was about 1.5 hrs. We found it pretty easy to find the start of the route, just keep heading west until you get around the huge corner. I thought the climbing was great, but maybe that's just because I've been deprived of decent crack climbing all summer. We figured if the wide dihedral cracks weren't quite so much dirty pegmatite, this would probably be a much more popular route! Lots for everyone.... I found myself using almost all crack technique throughout, from fingers to ring locks to sweet hands to fists to a bit of offwidth and chimney. We did the last easy pitches instead of the bushwhack and loved them. A bit dirty and loose, felt kinda like an easy alpine setting. We were mostly able to just climb unroped, but the last pitch to the rim we belayed and protected a bit. Definitely some exposure there. We like to bring too much gear, especially for long pitches in The Black, but as both of us are max 5.10 trad climbers our rack was pretty good. Singles from smallest C3, doubles from 0.3-0.75, triples from 1-3, singles 4-5, a set of nuts and a lot of alpine draws. Didn't need anything smaller than the yellow C3, but otherwise everything was used and appreciated. Highly recommend this climb! Oct 13, 2016
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Approach: from the Visitor's Center, park in a small, right-side pullout at the 20mph curvy road sign in between Devil's Lookout and Chasm View Overlook. A well-trodden trail descends right from here down the Chillumstone Gully. Descend several hundred feet down the gully (takes longer than you might expect), until you get cliffed out. Locate a rappel anchor on the right wall with a fixed line (didn't need 2 ropes as it turned out). From this rappel anchor, you can scope Blackjack, which is across the gully on the far right side of the wall. Once off rappel and underneath the "Chockstone," walk across the gully and climb up low, somewhat exposed 5th class. Walk across a very large, grassy terrace toward the wall, eventually heading up and around the right side of the wall. The picture John Peterson took looking up the first pitch was especially helpful in locating the start of the route.

Gear: 2 x yellow Alien - #4, 1 x #5, med-large nuts. If you're confident, you could get away with only 1 x #4 and no #5. Oct 5, 2015
jcast
Durango
 
jcast   Durango
 
Did this route this past weekend and completely blew the first pitch. We started by climbing a finger crack behind a detached tower which led to some scarcely protected face climbing. I found it much harder than 5.9. The whole time I was trying to trend left but was forced to climb upward to a large ledge with some boulders on it. This is where I realized I was completely off route but also noticed it was possible to rappel down the other side of the ledge to what is probably the top of the "real" first pitch. I belayed my partner up and was able to sling one of the boulders for the rappel, which in the end worked out fine. We ended up on the route and finished a few hours later. We took the gully out. From the top of the climb, the gully took no more than 30 minutes to reach the canyon rim. Although we didn't climb the first pitch proper, I would recommend it over the crack we did climb. It was pretty runout on lichen covered rock. There was a cord wrapped around a large horn which raised suspicion on this pitch, but for some reason I blew right past it. Apparently someone else did the same thing. May 21, 2012
rockrat_co
Glenwood Springs, CO
rockrat_co   Glenwood Springs, CO
Hey there. I, in a failed solo attempt, bailed off this route from about 50' up the first pitch. Left a #2 Camalot. This was back in fall of 2007 I believe. Any chance someone picked it up? Nov 27, 2009
As we were about to leave the car, a passing ranger told us someone had set a rap route to the base. We wasted a lot of time looking for it but didn't see anything. If a route existed it would add a full * to the climb! Anyone know if this exists?

Here's our pitch by pitch:
  • Approach: took over two hours. We didn't belay any of the exposed spots but did place a few pieces and clip into them as we went. The move up out of the gully was the crux of this section. I conjecture that a 70m rope would get you down the Chillumstone but have no proof of this.
  • Pitch 1: Start in a chimney to the right of the huge corner. Good climbing and probably the crux. Well protected. We stopped at the end of the traverse left into the main corner. 160', 5.9
  • Pitch 2: Start with a short chimney, then up nice cracks. A small roof at the end of the pitch is the crux of the lead (5.9). Belay just past the roof. 160', 5.9.
  • Pitch 3: Continue up the corner. The size of the crack varies a lot but some parts are fairly wide. A combination of crack, chimney, and face climbing. We belayed on a small ledge about 40' below the big roof. 120', 5.8+.
  • Pitch 4: Up to the roof and then left under the roof (5.10- maybe, seemed no harder than P1). Up a short crack to a nice belay ledge on the left. 120', 5.10-.
  • Pitch 5: Up to easier ground and a big ledge. A few moves of 5.7 but mostly easier. 100', 5.7.
  • Pitch 6: Follow an easy gully to the ridge line. 80', 4th class
We were out of light and didn't continue up the ridge. The path up the gully was not particularly fun. You stay mostly level with just a few steps down until entering the bed of the gully. By headlamp it was hard to see where to go at the fork near the top - we went right (easy slab) and stepped back left at the top of the slab to avoid a steep section. About 2.5 hours from the top of the route to the car given the route finding issues, dehydration, and only having one headlamp. By daylight it is probably 1 hour.

Without the approach or gully finish this is a *** climb. But the amount of hassle on the approach and return make this a lot more serious that the BC "trade routes".

The other problem with the climb is that you're following pegmatite most of the way - not as nice as routes where it's just an occasional band.

This was very well protected for a Black Canyon climb. It takes hexes really well - that helped a lot. We didn't use much small gear but enjoyed double Camalots #0.5 to 4.

Things I learned:
  • Never wear shorts at the BC!
  • Never forget my headlamp.
  • Don't try to climb hard 5.9 with a heavy pack - we switched to hauling the pack after P1 and it was really easy to do on this route.
Sep 28, 2009
FA Leonard Coyne and Dennis Jackson. Mar 3, 2009
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
  5.9+
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
  5.9+
As of October 5th 2007 there was a fixed line on the rappel which appeared to have been placed there by the NPS. After the rappel you must go left towards the ledge system. Be warned that this ledge system is sketchy and getting on top of it requires a 4th/5th class move that has death fall potential. Rope up if at all concerned.

The approach and scramble out takes as long or longer than the route so plan on atleast 6 hours. The climbing is good! Oct 7, 2007
Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
 
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
 
If you have never done this route and you attempt the extra pitches exit option in the dark, be warned you are in for a epic! Nice linkup w/ Black Shadow Arete. Jun 6, 2007
Between Devil's Overlook and North Chasm is correct but the trail does start directly in front of the mentioned 20mph sign. The descriptions of the route are somewhat confusing because there are not any fixed or obvious belays in the middle pitches. There are many semi-hanging options and the route could be broken up in many different ways. I think the guidebook's topo is fairly good. There is currently an "X" marked death block about 40 feet above the roof slot and just below the grassy ledges and walk-off. Its not going come of if you touch it but might if you yarded on it or stood on it. This makes the ending a little harder and sketchier than it first appears. May 16, 2005
?????  
Chillumstone is not between Dragon Point and North Chasm View Over look. It is between Devils Overlook and North Chasm View Over Look. Sep 20, 2004
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
Find the Chillunstone Gully in front of the 20mph curvy road sign in between Dragon Point and South Chasm View Overlook May 25, 2004
aaron voreis
  5.9+
aaron voreis  
  5.9+
FYI the Chilliumstone Gully is mis-marked in the BC Guidebook. It is actually the next gully to the west from the one marked. Also, don't take the grade III of this route for granted. The bushwack out at the end is brutal and a bit dangerous especially if wet. I would recommend climbing the extra pitches instead of the gully.

Cams below a 0.4 (yellow Alien) are not needed. Bring a few small/medium hexes and and extra, hand-sized piece.

enjoy! Dec 3, 2003