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Routes in South Rim Routes

Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackjack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crystal Vision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dark Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Falcon Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Payment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: not sure
Page Views: 1,895 total, 12/month
Shared By: jeff haskell on May 7, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is on Alimony Wall. Park at the Painted Wall overlook. Walk a couple hundred yards further along the road (southwest?) and look for a narrow gully just to the left (climber's) of the wall. It is easy and recommended to take the short walk out towards the Painted Wall overlook and scope both the approach and the climb (it will be on your left). The climb is straightforward and mostly good crack climbing.

P1: 5.7, 90 feet. Dirty chimney, the climbing improves as you go. Belay at the base of the big crack.

P2: 5.9, 100 feet. Good crack with some wideness, harder than it looks. Belay at ledge.

P3: 5.11a?, 80 feet. Crux pitch, great hand crack to offwidth, back to hand crack. The tough part is short, maybe 5ft. Belay at cool ledge.

P4: 5.8, 100ft. Two options that meet after 20 feet in the corner. Mantle out of the corner and continue up an unprotected but relatively short and easy (5.7) chimney. The walk off is short and flat.

The guidebook mentions a 5.8 face option to avoid the crux. We checked this out and it may well be 5.8, but it should probably be called 5.8 R since it would involve traversing 10 or 15 feet away from the crack. I'd recommend the offwidth even if (like us) you can't climb overhanging 4 inch cracks. Its short and well protected with some wider gear.

Be careful with the approach - you can screw it up. If you head down the main gully dividing the Alimony Wall and the Painted Wall overlook, you will encounter a rappel (2 stoppers and a biner) and you will end up 200 feet of 5.7 bushes below the climb.

Protection

Singles below #0.75 Camalot will suffice. Extra hand sized pieces and 2 or 3 offwidth pieces in the #3.5 to #4.5 Camalot range. We placed one stopper, and you could probably leave them at home.
Skyeler Congdon
his van
  5.8+ R
Skyeler Congdon   his van
  5.8+ R
Stellar climbing. We climbed a crack system left of the chimney start as described in the guidebook and this was the only mediocre section of climbing. From pitch two on, the rock is quality granite and the climbing is sustained at the grade.

The 5.8 face climbing variation to the wide crux is great but dangerous, comparable in difficulty and consequence to the first pitch of Journey Home- maybe a little more mellow.

Consider linking this route with Alimony and even Steppin' Out. We did Alimony, ate lunch, and then did Last Payment. Highly recommended for a hot, casual day in the Black. May 8, 2011
Not really a 5.11 route - very consistent at 5.8 - 5.9 except one short section. We didn't do the 5.8 variation but that would make the route 5.9.

One way to do the approach is to rap in (60m) and leave the line there, cleaning it on the way out. The bolts hide under a small pile of rocks.

We aided the crux (just a couple of pulls on the gear - #5 Camalot helps here). The 5.8 variation looked pretty mellow but doesn't seem to get any traffic. Probably not R rated but a bit sporty.

A good route that will get better as things get cleaned up (especially the 1st pitch). Sep 28, 2010
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
 
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
 
This route can be done in three pitches if you link P1 and P2 together. Also, if you cannot find the rap anchors mentioned below, just set your own anchors in the wide crack at the top of the route (the crack is about 6 ft. from the edge)and rap down. This crack protects with three #4 camalots to set a rap/toprope. The right side variation at the beginning of the last pitch goes at 5.9 and is an ackward wide crack. Jun 19, 2007
There are rap anchors and chains above this wall. A bit hard to find but they are hidden under a cairn out towards the finish point of Alimony Wall route. Just climbers left of the finish. Super bomber and a bit better than the quick hike in. May 15, 2005