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Routes in South Rim Routes
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Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blackjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Chimney Chunga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C0-1 PG13 |
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Crystalvision T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Dark Star T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fade to Black T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Image of the Invisible T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Last Payment T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Steppin' Out T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Way Of The Ancients T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jamie Holloway and Chris Lea, 1982? |
| Page Views: | 3,111 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | jeff haskell on May 7, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2019 July South Casm View Wall closure lifted. Prior: Rockfall potential closes some routes!
Details
Per Matt Lisenby: South Chasm View closure is lifted.
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
Description
This is on Alimony Wall. Park at the Painted Wall overlook. Walk a couple hundred yards further along the road (southwest?) and look for a narrow gully just to the left (climber's) of the wall. It is easy and recommended to take the short walk out towards the Painted Wall overlook and scope both the approach and the climb (it will be on your left). The climb is straightforward and mostly good crack climbing.
P1: 5.7, 90 feet. Dirty chimney, the climbing improves as you go. Belay at the base of the big crack.
P2: 5.9, 100 feet. Good crack with some wideness, harder than it looks. Belay at ledge.
P3: 5.11a?, 80 feet. Crux pitch, great hand crack to offwidth, back to hand crack. The tough part is short, maybe 5ft. Belay at cool ledge.
P4: 5.8, 100ft. Two options that meet after 20 feet in the corner. Mantle out of the corner and continue up an unprotected but relatively short and easy (5.7) chimney. The walk off is short and flat.
The guidebook mentions a 5.8 face option to avoid the crux. We checked this out and it may well be 5.8, but it should probably be called 5.8 R since it would involve traversing 10 or 15 feet away from the crack. I'd recommend the offwidth even if (like us) you can't climb overhanging 4 inch cracks. Its short and well protected with some wider gear.
Be careful with the approach - you can screw it up. If you head down the main gully dividing the Alimony Wall and the Painted Wall overlook, you will encounter a rappel (2 stoppers and a biner) and you will end up 200 feet of 5.7 bushes below the climb.
P1: 5.7, 90 feet. Dirty chimney, the climbing improves as you go. Belay at the base of the big crack.
P2: 5.9, 100 feet. Good crack with some wideness, harder than it looks. Belay at ledge.
P3: 5.11a?, 80 feet. Crux pitch, great hand crack to offwidth, back to hand crack. The tough part is short, maybe 5ft. Belay at cool ledge.
P4: 5.8, 100ft. Two options that meet after 20 feet in the corner. Mantle out of the corner and continue up an unprotected but relatively short and easy (5.7) chimney. The walk off is short and flat.
The guidebook mentions a 5.8 face option to avoid the crux. We checked this out and it may well be 5.8, but it should probably be called 5.8 R since it would involve traversing 10 or 15 feet away from the crack. I'd recommend the offwidth even if (like us) you can't climb overhanging 4 inch cracks. Its short and well protected with some wider gear.
Be careful with the approach - you can screw it up. If you head down the main gully dividing the Alimony Wall and the Painted Wall overlook, you will encounter a rappel (2 stoppers and a biner) and you will end up 200 feet of 5.7 bushes below the climb.
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