Type: Trad, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: June 2015
Page Views: 493 total · 13/month
Shared By: erik rieger on Dec 9, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Rockfall potential closes some routes! Details

Description

It is possible parts of this route have been done before, but who knows. There's some amount of loose rock, ledges, and pricker bushes to climb through, but we mostly linked fun hand cracks on good stone.

Pitch 1. Broken face climbing leads to an open book corner (all hands and hard to see from the ground).

Pitch 2. Move the belay/third class up to an obvious splitter crack and climb hands to OW. Belay on a ledge.

Pitch 3. A short, thin, face traverse down and left gains a handcrack/steep flake. Easier terrain leads to small peg cave; belay there.

Pitch 4. Runout face climbing leads to a right arching finger-hand crack. Belay on a ledge system, and then move the belay right to a grey-coloured, right-facing corner.

Pitch 5. Climb steep, thin hands up the corner to a ledge.

Pitch 6. Continue with fists/OW and hands up the corner to a ledge belay.

Pitch 7. Ledgy climbing up a broken chimney system leads to a short, unprotected squeeze and mediocre anchor.

Pitch 8. Climb the loose peg chimney with some steep moves around chockstones higher up. This is bad rock; tread lightly.

This gets morning shade and afternoon sun. See the topo.

Location

Start a few hundred feet lower than the old tire in the Dragon Point gully and climb up to the Dragon Point Overlook. You can see most of the features from the top of Black Snake.

Protection

Small to #4-5.

Photos

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