Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,035 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on May 8, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
Description
This is an old school, wide route.
2021 edit: did I undersell the quality of this route? I just repeated it again after 10+ years, and it's a rad, albeit short, line! This is a great link- up and low commitment/inclement weather option that gets full shade!
P1. Climb various OW sizes up the left side of a giant pillar. Belay on top of pillar, 5.9, 120 feet.
P2. Head straight up wide splitter to roof, 5.10+, 60'.
P2 variation. Trend right up dicey rock to 5.9 bulge. Pull over steepness, and climb straight up face, moving back left at small ledge. Belay wedged behind big flakes.
P3. Chimney to the top, 5.7+, 100'.
P3 variation. Start in the chimney, but move out left to a 5.9 OW.
This is a good route, but if you are only doing one route on the Alimony Wall, Last Payment is much better. This wall is conducive to link-ups.
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