Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 12 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||Jonathan Schaffer, Lindsey Schauer, Fall 2011|
|Page Views:||5,178 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||Vic Zeilman on Sep 18, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
For more information Visit: nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
5.11+ Alternate Start
Tague Yer Time
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
Almost every pitch weighs in at 5.10 to 5.11. Generally speaking, the cruxes of the route protect well and the OW is manageable. Depending on ones climbing style its hard to say where the true crux of the route is, but you'll have plenty of options to choose from.
The original topo is more than adequate as a description of the route. There are very few places to get lost Basically, climb the first two pitches of Crystal Vision to the massive terrace above. The start of El Padres pitch 3 is a beckoning hands to wide crack almost direcly above (although on the right side of the massive terrace). The start can be kind of wet, but it quickly goes to secure hand jams, finishing with burly OW.
For the next handful of pitches, follow this obvious crack system, which is really the left side of an enormous pillar/buttress. Pitch 4 avoids a huge chimney with an awesome, wavy splitter that appears out of nowhere on the left wall. At the top of pitch 5, move the belay about 100 feet right, past some giant blocks, to belay under a pegmatite-ish corner that looks like crap but actually climbs well and is definitely one of the cruxes of the route.
Pitch 7 pulls through an airy bulge and leads to the base of another splitter hand crack. Pitch 8 takes this crack for quite a ways to an ominous, slightly flaring OW. Bump your #6 and finagle gear into the back. Exit and move right to another splitter OW and end at a ledge. Pitch 9 you guessed it another splitter. Punch it up the beautiful 5.10 corner for a shorter pitch. Pitch 10... locate the right leaning crack in some orangish colored peg. Climb this and up through a bulge. You're almost done.
From the ledge at the top of Pitch 10, choose your own adventure to the rim. There's a corner that leaves from the far right edge of the ledge, generally trending back to the left. Follow the path of least resistance until youre on the rim. It's probably worth breaking this up into a couple of pitches.