Type: Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Coyne, Reynolds?
Page Views: 3,885 total · 29/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: 2019 July South Casm View Wall closure lifted. Prior: Rockfall potential closes some routes! Details

Description

A great, shorter outing on the South Rim. It tops out practically on the road with no chossaneering. Good rock throughout with some nice, continuous, hand cracks on the first pitches. Good, safe climbing. Mostly shaded.

A short approach/solo gets to the real start on some grassy ledges about 15m above the tire mentioned in the location.

P1: Climb up to a short, 5.8 corner to a ledge in a massive corner. Continue up 5.9ish climbing in the corner to a ledge where a splitter shoots out right. 40m.

P2: Climb the splitter through an improbable roof. 5.10. Continue splitter to a leaning stance in a thin crack on the right, or continue and step into the corner on the left to belay on a small foot ledge. 40m.

P3: The only shitty pitch. Continue up now dirty splitter tending to the left past a couple bushes, a roof, and into a corner. 5.10. Belay on chockstones covered in birdshit. 30m.

P4: Long 5.11 O.W. corner. Big hands at times in the back. Two bolt anchor. 30m.

P5: Climb a little down then directly left past three bolts. Belay around arete below a shallow corner. 5.11-. 35m.

P6: Climb up corner, clip a fixed nut, and climb down to a large ledge and another fixed nut to belay. 5.11-. 15m.

P7: Climb right corner, then switch to the left. Tackle roof and pegmatite arch w/ good pro and decent rock. Traverse left out of arch and finish ramp to a belay below final double cracks. 5.11. 35m.

P8: Climb 5.11 fists up double cracks to rim. 20m.

You should be able to see your car from here.

Location

This is on the north-facing wall in the gully to the south (skier's left) of Dragon Point. The route can easily be scoped from the rim. Descend into gulley just off the parking.

Part 1: Bash down a few hundred feet to a slung thread. Rappel 20m or downclimb (5.5ish).

Part 2: Hike down right side of gully. Locate slung thread above a chockstone. Rappel 15m.

Part 3: Continue down gully to slung thread. Rappel 20m.

Part 4: Hike down ledge system in the middle of the gully. Locate two bolts with slings. Rappel 25m.

Part 5: Hike and scramble down the left side of the gulley to a tire. climb up from here. Same start as Dragon Rider, Black Circus.

Protection

Set of nuts (including smallish stuff).
Double set of cams to #3.5 Friend size.
#4 and #4.5 Camalot (old).

Bring some webbing to replace rappels if necessary.

Photos