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Routes in South Rim Routes
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Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blackjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Chimney Chunga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C0-1 PG13 |
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Crystalvision T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Dark Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fade to Black T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Image of the Invisible T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Last Payment T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Steppin' Out T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Way Of The Ancients T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Coyne, Reynolds? |
| Page Views: | 6,490 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Kalous on Sep 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2019 July South Casm View Wall closure lifted. Prior: Rockfall potential closes some routes!
Details
Per Matt Lisenby: South Chasm View closure is lifted.
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
Description
A great, shorter outing on the South Rim. It tops out practically on the road with no chossaneering. Good rock throughout with some nice, continuous, hand cracks on the first pitches. Good, safe climbing. Mostly shaded.
A short approach/solo gets to the real start on some grassy ledges about 15m above the tire mentioned in the location.
P1: Climb up to a short, 5.8 corner to a ledge in a massive corner. Continue up 5.9ish climbing in the corner to a ledge where a splitter shoots out right. 40m.
P2: Climb the splitter through an improbable roof. 5.10. Continue splitter to a leaning stance in a thin crack on the right, or continue and step into the corner on the left to belay on a small foot ledge. 40m.
P3: The only shitty pitch. Continue up now dirty splitter tending to the left past a couple bushes, a roof, and into a corner. 5.10. Belay on chockstones covered in birdshit. 30m.
P4: Long 5.11 O.W. corner. Big hands at times in the back. Two bolt anchor. 30m.
P5: Climb a little down then directly left past three bolts. Belay around arete below a shallow corner. 5.11-. 35m.
P6: Climb up corner, clip a fixed nut, and climb down to a large ledge and another fixed nut to belay. 5.11-. 15m.
P7: Climb right corner, then switch to the left. Tackle roof and pegmatite arch w/ good pro and decent rock. Traverse left out of arch and finish ramp to a belay below final double cracks. 5.11. 35m.
P8: Climb 5.11 fists up double cracks to rim. 20m.
You should be able to see your car from here.
A short approach/solo gets to the real start on some grassy ledges about 15m above the tire mentioned in the location.
P1: Climb up to a short, 5.8 corner to a ledge in a massive corner. Continue up 5.9ish climbing in the corner to a ledge where a splitter shoots out right. 40m.
P2: Climb the splitter through an improbable roof. 5.10. Continue splitter to a leaning stance in a thin crack on the right, or continue and step into the corner on the left to belay on a small foot ledge. 40m.
P3: The only shitty pitch. Continue up now dirty splitter tending to the left past a couple bushes, a roof, and into a corner. 5.10. Belay on chockstones covered in birdshit. 30m.
P4: Long 5.11 O.W. corner. Big hands at times in the back. Two bolt anchor. 30m.
P5: Climb a little down then directly left past three bolts. Belay around arete below a shallow corner. 5.11-. 35m.
P6: Climb up corner, clip a fixed nut, and climb down to a large ledge and another fixed nut to belay. 5.11-. 15m.
P7: Climb right corner, then switch to the left. Tackle roof and pegmatite arch w/ good pro and decent rock. Traverse left out of arch and finish ramp to a belay below final double cracks. 5.11. 35m.
P8: Climb 5.11 fists up double cracks to rim. 20m.
You should be able to see your car from here.
Location
This is on the north-facing wall in the gully to the south (skier's left) of Dragon Point. The route can easily be scoped from the rim. Descend into gulley just off the parking.
Part 1: Bash down a few hundred feet to a slung thread. Rappel 20m or downclimb (5.5ish).
Part 2: Hike down right side of gully. Locate slung thread above a chockstone. Rappel 15m.
Part 3: Continue down gully to slung thread. Rappel 20m.
Part 4: Hike down ledge system in the middle of the gully. Locate two bolts with slings. Rappel 25m.
Part 5: Hike and scramble down the left side of the gulley to a tire. climb up from here. Same start as Dragon Rider, Black Circus.
Part 1: Bash down a few hundred feet to a slung thread. Rappel 20m or downclimb (5.5ish).
Part 2: Hike down right side of gully. Locate slung thread above a chockstone. Rappel 15m.
Part 3: Continue down gully to slung thread. Rappel 20m.
Part 4: Hike down ledge system in the middle of the gully. Locate two bolts with slings. Rappel 25m.
Part 5: Hike and scramble down the left side of the gulley to a tire. climb up from here. Same start as Dragon Rider, Black Circus.
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