Avg: 3.4 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||5,413 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Kalous on Sep 16, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
For more information Visit: nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
5.11+ Alternate Start
Tague Yer Time
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
A short approach/solo gets to the real start on some grassy ledges about 15m above the tire mentioned in the location.
P1: Climb up to a short, 5.8 corner to a ledge in a massive corner. Continue up 5.9ish climbing in the corner to a ledge where a splitter shoots out right. 40m.
P2: Climb the splitter through an improbable roof. 5.10. Continue splitter to a leaning stance in a thin crack on the right, or continue and step into the corner on the left to belay on a small foot ledge. 40m.
P3: The only shitty pitch. Continue up now dirty splitter tending to the left past a couple bushes, a roof, and into a corner. 5.10. Belay on chockstones covered in birdshit. 30m.
P4: Long 5.11 O.W. corner. Big hands at times in the back. Two bolt anchor. 30m.
P5: Climb a little down then directly left past three bolts. Belay around arete below a shallow corner. 5.11-. 35m.
P6: Climb up corner, clip a fixed nut, and climb down to a large ledge and another fixed nut to belay. 5.11-. 15m.
P7: Climb right corner, then switch to the left. Tackle roof and pegmatite arch w/ good pro and decent rock. Traverse left out of arch and finish ramp to a belay below final double cracks. 5.11. 35m.
P8: Climb 5.11 fists up double cracks to rim. 20m.
You should be able to see your car from here.
Part 1: Bash down a few hundred feet to a slung thread. Rappel 20m or downclimb (5.5ish).
Part 2: Hike down right side of gully. Locate slung thread above a chockstone. Rappel 15m.
Part 3: Continue down gully to slung thread. Rappel 20m.
Part 4: Hike down ledge system in the middle of the gully. Locate two bolts with slings. Rappel 25m.
Part 5: Hike and scramble down the left side of the gulley to a tire. climb up from here. Same start as Dragon Rider, Black Circus.