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Routes in South Rim Routes

Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackjack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crystal Vision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dark Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Falcon Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Payment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Coyne, Reynolds?
Page Views: 3,228 total, 29/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

A great, shorter outing on the South Rim. It tops out practically on the road with no chossaneering. Good rock throughout with some nice, continuous, hand cracks on the first pitches. Good, safe climbing. Mostly shaded.

A short approach/solo gets to the real start on some grassy ledges about 15m above the tire mentioned in the location.

P1: Climb up to a short, 5.8 corner to a ledge in a massive corner. Continue up 5.9ish climbing in the corner to a ledge where a splitter shoots out right. 40m.

P2: Climb the splitter through an improbable roof. 5.10. Continue splitter to a leaning stance in a thin crack on the right, or continue and step into the corner on the left to belay on a small foot ledge. 40m.

P3: The only shitty pitch. Continue up now dirty splitter tending to the left past a couple bushes, a roof, and into a corner. 5.10. Belay on chockstones covered in birdshit. 30m.

P4: Long 5.11 O.W. corner. Big hands at times in the back. Two bolt anchor. 30m.

P5: Climb a little down then directly left past three bolts. Belay around arete below a shallow corner. 5.11-. 35m.

P6: Climb up corner, clip a fixed nut, and climb down to a large ledge and another fixed nut to belay. 5.11-. 15m.

P7: Climb right corner, then switch to the left. Tackle roof and pegmatite arch w/ good pro and decent rock. Traverse left out of arch and finish ramp to a belay below final double cracks. 5.11. 35m.

P8: Climb 5.11 fists up double cracks to rim. 20m.

You should be able to see your car from here.

Location

This is on the north-facing wall in the gully to the south (skier's left) of Dragon Point. The route can easily be scoped from the rim. Descend into gulley just off the parking.

Part 1: Bash down a few hundred feet to a slung thread. Rappel 20m or downclimb (5.5ish).

Part 2: Hike down right side of gully. Locate slung thread above a chockstone. Rappel 15m.

Part 3: Continue down gully to slung thread. Rappel 20m.

Part 4: Hike down ledge system in the middle of the gully. Locate two bolts with slings. Rappel 25m.

Part 5: Hike and scramble down the left side of the gulley to a tire. climb up from here. Same start as Dragon Rider, Black Circus.

Protection

Set of nuts (including smallish stuff).
Double set of cams to #3.5 Friend size.
#4 and #4.5 Camalot (old).

Bring some webbing to replace rappels if necessary.
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
  5.11
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
  5.11
Get your burl on for this one! Black Snake is a quality 5.11 rock climb, with no pitch being a gimme. We were happy with doubles from black Alien to #2, 3 x #3, 1 x old #3.5, 1 x new #4, 1 x new #5, single set nuts. It's not a desert splitter, so the sizes in the bigger ranges are flexible. Even thought this climb has only 8 pitches, I'd recommend giving yourself plenty of daylight. It's on 'til the end! Oct 6, 2015
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
 
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
 
This is tough, physical, crack climb! The off-width is good, and there are tons of hand jams and a little spice here and there. The gear is right on and would like one more 3 and 4 cam. The last pitch is not a gimme! The P6 up and down area is cool with a bolt not drawn on the topo, you will see it off the belay up and right. Only a spot of sun around 10 or 11 am. P8 is actually overhung 0.5's right off the belay to fists! Jul 17, 2010