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Routes in South Rim Routes

Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackjack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crystal Vision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dark Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Falcon Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Payment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 1500 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Donahue, Ogden
Page Views: 17,315 total, 154/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is truly one of the great routes in the Black, and perhaps the world. Yes, THE WORLD! Great rock and great gear throughout.

P1: Face climb trending right with gear and past 3 bolts to the base of an open corner. Two bolt belay. 5.11.

P2: Climb the amazing corner to a stance. Unbelievable. 5.12-.

P3: A short crack leads to a corner and a mantle and easier climbing to a stance below a bolt and corner. 5.11+.

P4: Climb past the bolt into yet another amazing corner. Belay at a stance below a shallow corner/slot. 5.12-.

P5: Climb the slot past a roof. 5.10. A ledge and a short difficult corner follows. 5.10. At the next ledge, bypass the corner on the face to the right. Belay at grassy ledges.

P6: Go up 5.8 corners trending slightly left. After 200' move right and continue with a little simul-climbing up stair step ledges to the base of open black corner.

Variation directly to 2 Boulder Bivy: Belay after 200' and then step a little right and go up obvious 5.8 flake corner (nice). Some slightly mungier and harder climbing tops out on the bivy.

P7: Climb a black corner (5.11a) stepping out left when convenient and finishing at the base of a obvious thin crack in a wide dihedral. An easy 50' traverse can go from here to the 2 boulder bivy.

P8: 50 feet right of the two boulder bivy. Climb a shallow splitter through a black streak. When the crack peters out, step right, then up and left to a bolt. A difficult leftward traverse (11d) ends at a two bolt belay. 5.12. Stellar.

P9: Follow a shallow crack, then faceclimb right to a bolt and mantle move to a ledge. Step left into a shallow corner and another ledge with a small crack for gear. Step down and right, then up to a rampy corner. Follow this to the top and a good ledge. 5.11.

P10: Ignore the flake going out left. Go up into twin cracks then face climb past a seam to a ledge (12-). Continue up a left leaning corner past a bolt (12-) to belay stance. Minus too much rope drag, you can continue another 40 feet up 10+ to a chain anchor (the third station on Astro-slog raps).

P11: (The extra 40' in the above pitch can be added to this pitch, too, or done as a short pitch to reduce drag) Go up corners and face climb out right past some cracks. Climb the right leaning corner to a sloping ledge and a single belay bolt. 5.11.

P12: A very difficult overhanging crack splits a short headwall to chain anchors (the second rap station). 5.12.

P13: Up through chockstones to grassy ledges. Resist the temptation to go straight up. Head directly left under the prow to join the top of Astro Dog. Belay below 5.9 S-crack on Astro Dog. 5.8.

P14: Climb 5.9 s-crack. Trend left to 5.9 corner. Go through bushes and behind flake. Chimney up and step across. Battle drag up pegmatite ramp past a pin. Belay at the top of pegmatite.

P15: Tend right up gully and under roofs. Step around the roof to a slab and head up and left. Climb chimney corner past chockstones. 5.9. Belay at chains on top.

Location

This route is on the South Rim below the South Chasm Overlook. Descend the Astro Slog descent. The route begins just right of the first pitch of Astro Dog. Look for face holds and cracks trending right to a bolt.

Protection

Set of stoppers with extra 4 through 7.
"RPs" (those BD steel micros work wonders).
Two sets of cams from purple TCU size to hands with one micro-cam.
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12
The definition of 4 stars!!!! Jul 15, 2016
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
 
Nick Schlichtman   Golden, CO
 
Just phenomenal rock climbing. The 5.12 pitches are getting a lot of love in the comments. The 5.11 climbing is pretty great as well and really tie the climb together making it into the beautiful route it is. Just don't want those pitches to feel left out....

Noah and I did it in 2 days. Day 2 felt like a fight. Maybe due to lack of fitness and too much whiskey during our night at the bivy. May 29, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
^Slowly? May 6, 2016
John Gassel
Boston, MA
John Gassel   Boston, MA
How does this thing go as an aid climb? May 5, 2016
Mark Hudon
Lives on the road
 
Mark Hudon   Lives on the road
 
Awesome route!
We didn't take a #3 and never missed it. One #2 would be fine also. A good selection of smaller nuts is highly recommended though.
The pitch above the Two Boulder Bivy was little bit dirty, but my partner brushed it as he led it and still on-sighted it.
I wouldn't call the last 12 pitch a +, 12b at the most. Sep 13, 2015
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
Offset nuts or just regular ol' tapers? Sep 6, 2015
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
The bottom 7 pitches were definitely softer than the top ones. The one .12a off the 2 bldr bivy is the hardest of the .12a's. Oct 21, 2012
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
 
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
 
This route is beyond Classic! Some of the best rock I have ever climbed. The 5.12 pitch off of 2 boulder bivy is freakin' amazing! Oct 4, 2012
Elliott686 Bernhagen
Tonka bay, MN
Elliott686 Bernhagen   Tonka bay, MN
Hey, does anybody know the history of this climb? I'd love to hear it if you have a minute Aug 9, 2012
Tank Evans
  5.12
Tank Evans  
  5.12
I totally agree with Scott's recomendation of spending a night on the two boulder bivy, and definitely bring the beer.

15 pitch routes don't get much cleaner or more classic than TYT, no worries, just great rock climbing! Oct 1, 2011
Thanks for the kudos, Scott. You're welcome! Since you brought up the "established" aspect of the climb and "cleaning", I thought I'd clarify that Jared and I established the climb on lead with almost no cleaning. A few dirty fingerlocks was about it. That's why it is such a great climb - it was clean in the first place! Jul 15, 2011
Scott Bennett
  5.12
Scott Bennett  
  5.12
This route is indeed a classic! If you enjoy thin granite cracks and corners with good pro, get on this route!

A few notes and suggestions:

Our original plan, and one I would recommend to anyone looking for a relaxed outing, was to spend two days on the route. It is very easy to rap in with a haulbag to the two-boulder-bivy. Take full advantage of the top-down hauling to bring beer, good food, boombox, whatever. The bivy is nice for two people. (We did not end up climbing the second half of the route on the second day, though, as threatening weather gave us an excuse to escape on Astro-dog. We came back two weeks later to climb the upper half).

As for the pitches, the long stemming corner on P2, and the p8 corner above the bivy ledge felt like the most involved, sustained leads. The hardest single move is definitely on p12 (the steep finger crack), but it's very short and easy to figure out.

The rack recommended was spot on, was glad to have a good selection of RPs and small cams. You could probably get by without the #3, or a second #2, but we found plenty of places to use them.

Finally, HUGE thanks to the FA team for establishing this line. This was definitely a route that had to be "established", I'm sure it required a fair amount of cleaning, and every one of the bolts seems pretty essential. It's not a line that jumps out at you, but it weaves its way and connects some amazing pitches on very good rock.

-Scott Jun 3, 2011
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Tried the upper pitches the other day. Awesome route! Very hard crux that I believe is .12+. Jun 16, 2010
chris Kalous  
 
Posted a new and fairly accurate topo after doing the complete route with Chris Righter. The only guesswork is the pitch lengths, but they should be about right. J Wharton suggests linking pitch 2 and 3, but drag may be a problem and then detract from the absolutely sublime climbing you just completed on pitch 2. I'd suggest belaying and soaking it in!

As to Topher's above comment: On pitch 12, we put in a nut that becomes part of the anchor and the first piece for the crux climbing. It goes just below the pin scar. I fell on it a couple times. Sounds sketchy but it keeps you off the ledge just fine and your other belay piece is a 3/8" bolt in bullet stone. Jul 6, 2009
Somebody took the piton that was part of the anchor below the last 5.12 pitch, right under the Astrodog raps. Right now it is a single bolt anchor with hard climbing above. It might be worth taking a medium-sized angle on the rappel to add to the anchor, then leave the hammer there to pickup on your way out. Jul 5, 2009