Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ed Webster and Bryan Becker
Page Views: 24,705 total · 118/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on May 10, 2002 with improvements by Jake Dickerson
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


127 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a amazingly sustained route that teeters on hard 5.9, easy 5.10 the whole way. Excellent rock and good pro make for an enjoyable day, once past the serious first pitch. This route is borderline grade III or IV. The line is direct and easy to follow, but the sustained nature of it could make the day a little longer. To find the start, look for the Ament's Chimney, the huge cleft that can't be missed. Scramble up the exposed third class to the base of a large dihedral on the left side of the chimney. This right-facing dihedral is Kachina Wings. Traverse across a good ledge to its end. The route climbs the left-facing dihedral above. The first half of the route, until the chimney roof, receives shade all morning. Note that I climbed this route with a 70m rope and stretched it several times. Belays should be adjusted accordingly.

Pitch 1. This is dangerous but not more so than most other Black pitches. It can be done several ways. Move up and left to an undercling, then back right to the dihedral and up to one of two ledges, the second being directly below the chimney capped by a roof. The second ledge will require a 70m rope, a good way to go on this route.

Pitch 2. Pass the roof and continue up and right to an uncomfortable belay. I believe that you should belay above the pegmatite with a 60m in order to reach a large ledge after the next pitch. This was the most strenuous move on the route.

Pitch 3. Blast up the sustained 5.10- crack system which will eat just about any small to mid-size pro you throw at it. Belay left on a large ledge.

Pitch 4. Move back right and climb the short 5.9 offwidth and belay after. I linked this and the final pitch and ended up kicking rocks off the loose ledges above onto my partner who was simulclimbing the 5.9 offwidth below my 100' runout. It is best to do it in two.

Pitch 5. Continue to large ledge 30' below the rim.

Traverse left several hundred feet and scramble to the top at the same 3rd class spot The Cruise finishes.

Protection

Standard rack, #4 Camalot.

Photos