Avg: 3.7 from 148 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Ed Webster and Bryan Becker|
|Page Views:||27,718 total · 118/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Milhaupt on May 10, 2002 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Pitch 1. This is dangerous but not more so than most other Black pitches. It can be done several ways. Move up and left to an undercling, then back right to the dihedral and up to one of two ledges, the second being directly below the chimney capped by a roof. The second ledge will require a 70m rope, a good way to go on this route.
Pitch 2. Pass the roof and continue up and right to an uncomfortable belay. I believe that you should belay above the pegmatite with a 60m in order to reach a large ledge after the next pitch. This was the most strenuous move on the route.
Pitch 3. Blast up the sustained 5.10- crack system which will eat just about any small to mid-size pro you throw at it. Belay left on a large ledge.
Pitch 4. Move back right and climb the short 5.9 offwidth and belay after. I linked this and the final pitch and ended up kicking rocks off the loose ledges above onto my partner who was simulclimbing the 5.9 offwidth below my 100' runout. It is best to do it in two.
Pitch 5. Continue to large ledge 30' below the rim.
Traverse left several hundred feet and scramble to the top at the same 3rd class spot The Cruise finishes.