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Elevation: 8,401 ft
GPS: 38.72589, -106.77013
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 151,764 total · 610/month
Shared By: Kirk Woerner on Sep 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

The First Buttress is a staked wall with easy access. The left side remains sunny all day, while the right side gets some shade in the late afternoon. This makes the upper wall a great after work crag in the hotter months. The right side of the first buttress is a slightly lesser known area than the left. It is set back a bit and so doesn't get as much traffic. The climbs are usually a bit more meandering. On the other hand, many of them have more than one pitch which makes them interesting. This is a great place in the hotter summer months since it faces a touch north and has many nooks and crannies for shade.

The routes are sorted as follows (from left to right):

SUNDECK
1- Tourist Attraction
2- Hurtin' fer Certain
3- Pink Flamin' Go
4- Awkward and Wide
5- Left Hand Mantel

PARKING LOT WALL
1- Billy Shears
2- Jackal
3- Cake Walk
4- Zig Zag
5- Bourbon Street
6- Whiskey Crack
7- Whiskey Dick
8- Oh Mama

THE BIG ROOF
1- Bronco Billy's
2- Double Time at Sue's Place
3- Guanos Dios
4- Welcome to China

BABY FACE/MIDDLE WAL
1- Kindergarten Crack
2- Aqua Dog
3- Solo Crack
4- Tony's Tango
5- Crystal Staircase
6- Baby Face
7- Taylor Made

LEFT HAND (aka AIR CONDITIONER CORNER)
1- Left Hand Crack
2- Fine Whine
3- Air Conditioner
4- Question of Balance

UPPER WALL
1- Aphrodite
2- Cigarette
3- Dun's Dihedral
4- Sasafrass
5- Corkey's Rumpet
6- Christine's Dream
7- Singapore Sling
8- Half Hearted
9- Outter Limits
10- Maria's Farewell
11- Gymnastics
12- Kathy's Corner

45 Total Climbs

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Location: First Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 85
Tony's Tango
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 46
The Jackal
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 116
Left Hand Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
Air Conditioner
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 56
Sasafrass
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 20
Oh Mama Mama
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 33
Whiskey Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 4
Outer Limits
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Hurtin' Fer Certain
Trad, TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 8
Corky's Rumpet
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Cig Arete
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 42
Question of Balance
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
Half Hearted
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Whiskey Dick
Trad, Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 10
Christine's Dream
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tony's Tango Baby Face / Middle Wall
 85
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Jackal Parking Lot Wall
 46
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Left Hand Crack Left Hand
 116
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Air Conditioner Left Hand
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sasafrass Upper Wall
 56
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Oh Mama Mama Parking Lot Wall
 20
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Whiskey Crack Parking Lot Wall
 33
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Outer Limits Upper Wall
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad
Hurtin' Fer Certain Sun Deck
 9
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Corky's Rumpet Upper Wall
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Cig Arete Upper Wall
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Question of Balance Left Hand
 42
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
Half Hearted Upper Wall
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Whiskey Dick Parking Lot Wall
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Christine's Dream Upper Wall
 10
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in First Buttress »

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