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Elevation: 8,401 ft 2,561 m
GPS: 38.72589, -106.77013
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 152,421 total · 559/month
Shared By: Kirk Woerner on Sep 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

The First Buttress is a stacked wall with easy access. The left side remains sunny all day, while the right side gets some shade in the late afternoon. This makes the upper wall a great after work crag in the hotter months. The right side of the first buttress is a slightly lesser known area than the left. It is set back a bit and so doesn't get as much traffic. The climbs are usually a bit more meandering. On the other hand, many of them have more than one pitch which makes them interesting. This is a great place in the hotter summer months since it faces a touch north and has many nooks and crannies for shade.

The routes are sorted as follows (from left to right):

SUNDECK

A. Tourist Attraction.

B. Hurtin' fer Certain.

C. Pink Flamin' Go.

D. Awkward and Wide.

E. Left Hand Mantel.

PARKING LOT WALL

F. Billy Shears.

G. Jackal.

H. Cake Walk.

I. Zig Zag.

J. Bourbon Street.

K. Whiskey Crack.

L. Whiskey Dick.

M. Oh Mama.

THE BIG ROOF

N. Bronco Billy's.

O. Double Time at Sue's Place.

P. Guanos Dios.

R. Welcome to China.

BABY FACE/MIDDLE WAL

S. Kindergarten Crack.

T. Aqua Dog.

U. Solo Crack.

V. Tony's Tango.

X. Crystal Staircase.

Y. Baby Face.

Z. Taylor Made.

LEFT HAND (aka AIR CONDITIONER CORNER)

AA. Left Hand Crack.

BB. Fine Whine.

CC. Air Conditioner.

DD. Question of Balance.

UPPER WALL

EE. Aphrodite.

FF. Cigarette.

GG. Dun's Dihedral.

HH. Sasafrass.

II. Corkey's Rumpet.

JJ. Christine's Dream.

KK. Singapore Sling.

LL. Half Hearted.

MM. Outter Limits.

NN. Maria's Farewell.

OO. Gymnastics.

PP. Kathy's Corner.

49 Total Climbs

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Location: First Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 96
Tony's Tango
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 129
Left Hand Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 75
Air Conditioner
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
Sasafrass
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 31
Kathy's Corner
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 23
Oh Mama Mama
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 35
Whiskey Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Hurtin' Fer Certain
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Aphrotittie
Trad, TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 12
Corky's Rumpet
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
Cig Arete
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 49
Question of Balance
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Half Hearted
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Whiskey Dick
Trad, Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 13
Christine's Dream
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tony's Tango Baby Face / Middle Wall
 96
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Left Hand Crack Left Hand
 129
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Air Conditioner Left Hand
 75
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sasafrass Upper Wall
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Kathy's Corner Upper Wall
 31
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
Oh Mama Mama Parking Lot Wall
 23
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Whiskey Crack Parking Lot Wall
 35
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Hurtin' Fer Certain Sun Deck
 11
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Aphrotittie Upper Wall
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Corky's Rumpet Upper Wall
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Cig Arete Upper Wall
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Question of Balance Left Hand
 49
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
Half Hearted Upper Wall
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Whiskey Dick Parking Lot Wall
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Christine's Dream Upper Wall
 13
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in First Buttress »

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