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Areas in First Buttress

Baby Face / Middle Wall 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Big Roof, The 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Left Hand 3 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Parking Lot Wall 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Sun Deck 4 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Upper Wall, The 12 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Description [Suggest Change]

The First Buttress is a staked wall with easy access. The left side remains sunny all day, while the right side gets some shade in the late afternoon. This makes the upper wall a great after work crag in the hotter months. The right side of the first buttress is a slightly lesser known area than the left. It is set back a bit and so doesn't get as much traffic. The climbs are usually a bit more meandering. On the other hand, many of them have more than one pitch which makes them interesting. This is a great place in the hotter summer months since it faces a touch north and has many nooks and crannies for shade.

The routes are sorted as follows (from left to right):

SUNDECK
1- Tourist Attraction
2- Hurtin' fer Certain
3- Pink Flamin' Go
4- Awkward and Wide
5- Left Hand Mantel

PARKING LOT WALL
1- Billy Shears
2- Jackal
3- Cake Walk
4- Zig Zag
5- Bourbon Street
6- Whiskey Crack
7- Whiskey Dick
8- Oh Mama

THE BIG ROOF
1- Bronco Billy's
2- Double Time at Sue's Place
3- Guanos Dios
4- Welcome to China

BABY FACE/MIDDLE WAL
1- Kindergarten Crack
2- Aqua Dog
3- Solo Crack
4- Tony's Tango
5- Crystal Staircase
6- Baby Face
7- Taylor Made

LEFT HAND (aka AIR CONDITIONER CORNER)
1- Left Hand Crack
2- Fine Whine
3- Air Conditioner
4- Question of Balance

UPPER WALL
1- Aphrodite
2- Cigarette
3- Dun's Dihedral
4- Sasafrass
5- Corkey's Rumpet
6- Christine's Dream
7- Singapore Sling
8- Half Hearted
9- Outter Limits
10- Maria's Farewell
11- Gymnastics
12- Kathy's Corner

41 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 30
Kindergarten Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 49
Tony's Tango
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
Solo Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
The Jackal
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 71
Left Hand Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Air Conditioner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Zig Zag
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Black Gash
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Taylor Made
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Oh Mama Mama
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 19
Whiskey Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Hurtin' Fer Certain
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 24
Question of Balance
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Whiskey Dick
Trad, Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Double Time at Sue's Place
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kindergarten Crack Baby Face / Middle Wall
 30
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Tony's Tango Baby Face / Middle Wall
 49
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Solo Crack Baby Face / Middle Wall
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Jackal Parking Lot Wall
 31
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Left Hand Crack Left Hand
 71
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Air Conditioner Left Hand
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Zig Zag Parking Lot Wall
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Black Gash Upper Wall
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Taylor Made Baby Face / Middle Wall
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Oh Mama Mama Parking Lot Wall
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Whiskey Crack Parking Lot Wall
 19
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Hurtin' Fer Certain Sun Deck
 4
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Question of Balance Left Hand
 24
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
Whiskey Dick Parking Lot Wall
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Double Time at Sue's Place Big Roof
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in First Buttress »

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Photos

Scott you are correct the site needs to be restructured a wee bit as it is misleading the way it is.

I would propose that the 1st Buttress be broken into the following areas: Parking lot wall (including all the routes from Inner Space thru Whiskey Dick), Sun Deck (Tourist Attraction thru Left Hand Mantel), Big Roof (Oh Mama Mama thru Double Time), Baby Face / Middle Wall {Kindergarten thru Question of Balance, And the Upper Wall (Aphrodite thru Kathy's Corner).

All those in favor type aye. Apr 9, 2008
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
AAARRRGGGHH! Aye me droogies! I think if we could come up with some pics of the different sections you propose (that John Peterson takes some pretty good shots) it might make it easier to discuss. Apr 9, 2008
Cool! I've always wanted to be a droog. Once the term is over (just 4 more weeks!!) I'll borrow a good camera and get some nice shots for you guys and we'll make MP the place to go for Gunnison area climbing.

Oh yeah, "AYE!". Apr 9, 2008
Thanx you groovy admin dudes. You rock! Apr 10, 2008
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Here, Here! I wish I could get that kind of response out of my insurance company! Apr 10, 2008

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