Elevation: 8,401 ft
GPS: 38.726, -106.77 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 101,633 total · 491/month
Shared By: Kirk Woerner on Sep 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

The First Buttress is a staked wall with easy access. The left side remains sunny all day, while the right side gets some shade in the late afternoon. This makes the upper wall a great after work crag in the hotter months. The right side of the first buttress is a slightly lesser known area than the left. It is set back a bit and so doesn't get as much traffic. The climbs are usually a bit more meandering. On the other hand, many of them have more than one pitch which makes them interesting. This is a great place in the hotter summer months since it faces a touch north and has many nooks and crannies for shade.

The routes are sorted as follows (from left to right):

SUNDECK
1- Tourist Attraction
2- Hurtin' fer Certain
3- Pink Flamin' Go
4- Awkward and Wide
5- Left Hand Mantel

PARKING LOT WALL
1- Billy Shears
2- Jackal
3- Cake Walk
4- Zig Zag
5- Bourbon Street
6- Whiskey Crack
7- Whiskey Dick
8- Oh Mama

THE BIG ROOF
1- Bronco Billy's
2- Double Time at Sue's Place
3- Guanos Dios
4- Welcome to China

BABY FACE/MIDDLE WAL
1- Kindergarten Crack
2- Aqua Dog
3- Solo Crack
4- Tony's Tango
5- Crystal Staircase
6- Baby Face
7- Taylor Made

LEFT HAND (aka AIR CONDITIONER CORNER)
1- Left Hand Crack
2- Fine Whine
3- Air Conditioner
4- Question of Balance

UPPER WALL
1- Aphrodite
2- Cigarette
3- Dun's Dihedral
4- Sasafrass
5- Corkey's Rumpet
6- Christine's Dream
7- Singapore Sling
8- Half Hearted
9- Outter Limits
10- Maria's Farewell
11- Gymnastics
12- Kathy's Corner

44 Total Climbs

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Location: First Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 40
Kindergarten Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 71
Tony's Tango
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 38
The Jackal
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Dunn's Dihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 93
Left Hand Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 50
Air Conditioner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Zig Zag
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 33
Baby Face
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 43
Sasafrass
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Taylor Made
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Oh Mama Mama
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 26
Whiskey Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Cig Arete
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 33
Question of Balance
Trad, TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Double Time at Sue's Place
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kindergarten Crack Baby Face / Middle Wall
 40
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Tony's Tango Baby Face / Middle Wall
 71
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Jackal Parking Lot Wall
 38
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Dunn's Dihedral Upper Wall
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Left Hand Crack Left Hand
 93
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Air Conditioner Left Hand
 50
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Zig Zag Parking Lot Wall
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Baby Face Baby Face / Middle Wall
 33
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Sasafrass Upper Wall
 43
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Taylor Made Baby Face / Middle Wall
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Oh Mama Mama Parking Lot Wall
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Whiskey Crack Parking Lot Wall
 26
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Cig Arete Upper Wall
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Question of Balance Left Hand
 33
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
Double Time at Sue's Place Big Roof
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in First Buttress »

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