Elevation: 8,555 ft
GPS: 38.727, -106.769 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 287,057 total · 1,310/month
Shared By: Kirk Woerner on Sep 17, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

Taylor Canyon (known by the locals as Harmels, for the ranch near the First Buttress) is a favorite in and around Crested Butte. The climbing is mostly traditional. Routes are usually under three pitches, but there are a lot of them of that length as well as single pitch. The rock is high quality granite in most places. There is a Kayak/Raft/Climbing guide shop also right next to the the First Buttress. A number of the climbs are runout and the grades are known to be pretty stiff (some might say sand-bagged). Consider that Otto's Route on Independance Monument is a "5.8" and it has chopped steps, while Left Hand Crack is a "5.8+" and I defy anyone to get such an awkward move on the first try.

Getting There

From Gunnison, go north on CO Highway 135 for about 10 miles. At the small town of Almont, turn right, and head up toward Taylor Reservoir. After another ten miles or so, you will come to Harmels Ranch. Immediately after, there will be a climbing/kyaking guiding outfit. The First Buttress is obvious (very). Park on your left just after the kayak outfit. Note, you will cross the Taylor River once. If you pass Harmels Ranch and then cross the river again, you have gone too far....

170 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Taylor Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 47
Kindergarten Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 76
Tony's Tango
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 41
The Jackal
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 103
Left Hand Crack
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Chucky Cheese
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 56
Air Conditioner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Mirror Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
Sasafrass
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Journey through Gwondonaland
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Taylor Made
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Oh Mama Mama
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 27
Whiskey Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Cig Arete
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 36
Question of Balance
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kindergarten Crack First Buttress > Baby Face / Middle Wall
 47
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Tony's Tango First Buttress > Baby Face / Middle Wall
 76
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Jackal First Buttress > Parking Lot Wall
 41
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Left Hand Crack First Buttress > Left Hand
 103
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chucky Cheese Second Buttress
 37
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Air Conditioner First Buttress > Left Hand
 56
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Mirror Crack Rosy Lane
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sasafrass First Buttress > Upper Wall
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Journey through Gwondonaland Second Buttress
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Taylor Made First Buttress > Baby Face / Middle Wall
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Good, The Bad, and The… Gunnison Mtn Park Pic…
 35
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Oh Mama Mama First Buttress > Parking Lot Wall
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Whiskey Crack First Buttress > Parking Lot Wall
 27
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Cig Arete First Buttress > Upper Wall
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Question of Balance First Buttress > Left Hand
 36
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Taylor Canyon »

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