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Elevation: 8,555 ft 2,608 m
GPS: 38.72652, -106.76942
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 340,445 total · 1,347/month
Shared By: Kirk Woerner on Sep 17, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

Taylor Canyon (known by the locals as Harmels, for the ranch near the First Buttress) is a favorite in and around Crested Butte. The climbing is mostly traditional. Routes are usually under three pitches, but there are a lot of them of that length as well as single pitch. The rock is high quality granite in most places. There is a Kayak/Raft/Climbing guide shop also right next to the the First Buttress. A number of the climbs are runout and the grades are known to be pretty stiff (some might say sand-bagged). Consider that Otto's Route on Independance Monument is a "5.8" and it has chopped steps, while Left Hand Crack is a "5.8+" and I defy anyone to get such an awkward move on the first try.

Getting There Suggest change

From Gunnison, go north on CO Highway 135 for about 10 miles. At the small town of Almont, turn right, and head up toward Taylor Reservoir. After another ten miles or so, you will come to Harmels Ranch. Immediately after, there will be a climbing/kyaking guiding outfit. The First Buttress is obvious (very). Park on your left just after the kayak outfit. Note, you will cross the Taylor River once. If you pass Harmels Ranch and then cross the river again, you have gone too far....

190 Total Climbs

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Location: Taylor Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Taylor Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 117
Left Hand Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Mirror Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 57
Sasafrass
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Journey through Gwondonaland
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 45
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
Sport 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 7
Two Bolt
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 20
Oh Mama Mama
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 33
Whiskey Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Persnickety
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Cig Arete
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 42
Question of Balance
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Back for Seconds
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Whiskey Dick
Trad, Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
Rogue Repeater
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 10
Christine's Dream
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Hand Crack First Buttress > Left Hand
 117
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mirror Crack Rosy Lane
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sasafrass First Buttress > Upper Wall
 57
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Journey through Gwondonaland Second Buttress
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Good, The Bad, and The… Gunnison Mtn Park Pic…
 45
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Two Bolt N Bank > Two Bolt Wall
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Oh Mama Mama First Buttress > Parking Lot Wall
 20
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Whiskey Crack First Buttress > Parking Lot Wall
 33
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Persnickety N Bank > N Bank Left
 22
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cig Arete First Buttress > Upper Wall
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Question of Balance First Buttress > Left Hand
 42
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
Back for Seconds Second Buttress
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Whiskey Dick First Buttress > Parking Lot Wall
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Rogue Repeater N Bank > N Bank Left
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Christine's Dream First Buttress > Upper Wall
 10
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Taylor Canyon »

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