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Taylor Canyon Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Taylor Canyon

Bone Yard 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Coffin Crack Crag 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

First Buttress 48 / 2 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 49

Frenchman Buttress, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Gold Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Gunnison Mountain Park Picnic Area 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

North Bank 6 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

PCP Pinnacle 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Rosy Lane 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Second Buttress 12 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 15

Taylor Canyon Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 84 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 84

Taylor Park Valley 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Throttle Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Tilt Wall, The 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

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Elevation:	8,555 ft	2,608 m
GPS:	38.72652, -106.76942 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	342,280 total · 1,224/month
Shared By:	Kirk Woerner on Sep 17, 2003 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Taylor Canyon (known by the locals as Harmels, for the ranch near the First Buttress) is a favorite in and around Crested Butte. The climbing is mostly traditional. Routes are usually under three pitches, but there are a lot of them of that length as well as single pitch. The rock is high quality granite in most places. There is a Kayak/Raft/Climbing guide shop also right next to the the First Buttress. A number of the climbs are runout and the grades are known to be pretty stiff (some might say sand-bagged). Consider that Otto's Route on Independance Monument is a "5.8" and it has chopped steps, while Left Hand Crack is a "5.8+" and I defy anyone to get such an awkward move on the first try.

Getting There

From Gunnison, go north on CO Highway 135 for about 10 miles. At the small town of Almont, turn right, and head up toward Taylor Reservoir. After another ten miles or so, you will come to Harmels Ranch. Immediately after, there will be a climbing/kyaking guiding outfit. The First Buttress is obvious (very). Park on your left just after the kayak outfit. Note, you will cross the Taylor River once. If you pass Harmels Ranch and then cross the river again, you have gone too far....

200 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Taylor Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 135 ● Left Hand Crack Trad First Buttress > Left Hand
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 27 ● Angel Dust Trad PCP Pinnacle
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 28 ● Mirror Crack Trad 2 pitches Rosy Lane
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 66 ● Sasafrass Trad First Buttress > Upper Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 29 ● Journey through Gwondonaland Trad 2 pitches Second Buttress
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 32 ● Kathy's Corner Trad First Buttress > Upper Wall
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 57 ● The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly Sport 3 pitches Gunnison Mtn Park Pic…
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 23 ● Oh Mama Mama Trad 3 pitches First Buttress > Parking Lot Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 37 ● Whiskey Crack Trad 2 pitches First Buttress > Parking Lot Wall
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 25 ● Persnickety Sport N Bank > N Bank Left
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 21 ● Cig Arete Trad First Buttress > Upper Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 58 ● Question of Balance Trad, TR First Buttress > Left Hand
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 13 ● Back for Seconds Trad Second Buttress
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 12 ● Rogue Repeater Sport N Bank > N Bank Left
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 16 ● Christine's Dream Trad First Buttress > Upper Wall