Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Second Buttress

Angles Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back for Seconds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Top project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Chucky Cheese T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Rotten T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey through Gwondonaland T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left End Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mathematical Progressions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Needs a Bolt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Slap Happy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Whatever T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jimmy Newberry & John Rosholt
Page Views: 2,385 total, 15/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

On the far right (climber's right) side of the second buttress, there is a distinct nearly straight shot crack system that goes through a small roof and blanks out on a superb slab. Both pitches are challenging with the 2nd pitch through the roof being the actual crux.

The 1st pitch starts out somewhat awkwardly in a acute angle slot.It quickly becomes funtastic climbing to a belay 15' below the little roof at a big traversing ledge. The belay anchor can be set to the right or the left of the route. I personally prefer the climber's left side as the ledge is a bit more comfortable.

The next pitch is so fine! 15' of super crack climbing leads to a roof with great moves and wild positioning. Now, swallow hard and head up the headwall slab for the rest of the pitch. This stretch feels way out there but is really moderate. The climbing eases way up but so does the pro. It is a long run to the trees on top so you probably wont take this stretch for granted but there is no reason to get hurt. Descend by hiking around back to the right and down.

Protection

As per most Taylor Canyon routes A single rack from small wires to a 2.5 or 3 Cam. This route takes pro nicely.

Photos

- No Photos -
phil broscovak
  5.10a
phil broscovak  
  5.10a
Adam you are right it was Pulaski and Newberry. Tell your uncle I am trying to reach him. And by the way he's always been a little foggy. Ha ha. Apr 8, 2010
Aaron Brown
Gypsum, CO
Aaron Brown   Gypsum, CO
This route can be done in one long pitch. Instead of stepping left to the firs belay continue straight up the corner then face climb up and right to a rusty set of chains. One double length rappel gets you down. Mar 28, 2009
phil broscovak
  5.10a
phil broscovak  
  5.10a
Unfortunately Johnny Rotten can't answer questions. But Tom and Jimmy can. Jimmy told me he had worked on the FA with Rosholt. It is extremely likely Tom was there on the sharp end. Feb 2, 2009
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
What do you remember Phil? I know I did the 1st pitch of this in about '79 with that British climber that lived in Crested Butte (can't remember his name). The whole gang was working on this, but I don't remember who actually got the F.A. I think the Dawson brothers even spent some time on it. What does Leo's book say? Jan 28, 2009
aaron voreis
  5.10a
aaron voreis  
  5.10a
Both belays have bolted anchors which are used for the airy (1 60m barely makes it) rappel off of this fantastic route. The second 5.8 pitch is as good as any pitch I have ever done. Sep 15, 2005
phil broscovak
  5.10a
phil broscovak  
  5.10a
There are indeed two areas of the globe that were once part of the same paleocontinent. One area refered to as Gondwana is related to the current Indian sub continent. The other area known to this day as Gondwona [the New Zealand region is called Gwondona]. No jacked up spelling here. Thanx George for referencing the Red Rocks web link as a clarification. Jun 23, 2005
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This is not the only route named Gwondonnaland! The following link may help or further confuse the issue.

climbingredrocks.com/rock/d… Jun 21, 2005
Curious if the name isn't:"Journey Through Gondwanaland"

Gondwanaland being the name of the ancient supercontinent that included South America, Africa, and India.

Gwondonaland looks like an accidental botching of that rather than an intentional word choice... Jun 21, 2005
Awesome route. I think it's 5.9 though. Jun 20, 2005