Journey through Gwondonaland
Avg: 3.6 from 17 votes
Routes in Second Buttress
|Angles Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Back for Seconds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Big Top project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Chucky Cheese T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Johnny Rotten T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Journey through Gwondonaland T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Left End Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Mathematical Progressions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Needs a Bolt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Slap Happy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Whatever T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jimmy Newberry & John Rosholt|
|Page Views:||2,385 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionOn the far right (climber's right) side of the second buttress, there is a distinct nearly straight shot crack system that goes through a small roof and blanks out on a superb slab. Both pitches are challenging with the 2nd pitch through the roof being the actual crux.
The 1st pitch starts out somewhat awkwardly in a acute angle slot.It quickly becomes funtastic climbing to a belay 15' below the little roof at a big traversing ledge. The belay anchor can be set to the right or the left of the route. I personally prefer the climber's left side as the ledge is a bit more comfortable.
The next pitch is so fine! 15' of super crack climbing leads to a roof with great moves and wild positioning. Now, swallow hard and head up the headwall slab for the rest of the pitch. This stretch feels way out there but is really moderate. The climbing eases way up but so does the pro. It is a long run to the trees on top so you probably wont take this stretch for granted but there is no reason to get hurt. Descend by hiking around back to the right and down.
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