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Routes in Rosy Lane

Entrance Exam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Line on the Mirror S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mirror Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mirror Crack Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Talon Roof, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: ? possibly Rusty Baillie and Roy Smith
Page Views: 1,593 total, 11/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on May 5, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Mirror Crack is a way cool route. You can clearly see this line on Rosy Lane Wall from the sister route Angel Dust on PCP pinnacle. You can also easily scope the climb from the road or the Rosy Lane campground on the opposite side of the river from the crag. As you look at the main wall some of the most obvious features are the prominent straight up splitter crack that starts about 1/3rd of the way up and ends at the pronounced flake that juts out left at about the 2/3rds height. Where as Angel Dust is a very straight forward crack climb Mirror Crack is more diverse and engaging. I believe there are two cruxes on this climb. The first and 'physical' crux comes early. Turning the bulgy overhang on what was traditionally the 1st pitch. The second and 'mental' crux comes at the end of the splitter crack. Turning the flake that sounds like a gong. After that it is a moderate romp to the top. We always walked off the back side.

Protection

Gear is generally very good on this route. But, there may be a few spots where not having the proper sized gear (small down low, big up top) could cause distress. Still this route is safe and exciting, a grand adventure.

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mtoensing
Boulder
 
mtoensing   Boulder
 
I did this route on Wednesday after a final. After the traverse, that flake is way sketchy and a little focus is needed to get to that other flake. I definitely give the traverse section to the other flake, about 20 feet, a PG-13 or S rating. #3 cams can be used in the flake above to get to the other ledge.

When I was on top of the last flake trying to mantel onto the last ledge, I broke a small rock off that I was using for my left hand and landed back on the ledge, thankfully. Watch out for loose rock on this buttress, especially the first pitch.

Crack is amazing though, to bad it didn't go another hundred feet. It is a cake walk compared to left hand, which is still pretty easy. May 9, 2008
Ande Lloyd  
 
There is a detached flake above the traverse that may fall anytime, it is possible to set some micro cams above the flake but the placements aren't ideal. There is a bolt line that goes left, but it is a little harder climbing with more fall potential. Luckily the fall off the bolt line is fairly clean. Dec 4, 2017
mike bromberg
Revelstoke
mike bromberg   Revelstoke
There is a bolt anchor at the top of Mirror Crack that will land you back on the ledge with the large tree just barely with one 60m rope. Jun 10, 2010