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Routes in PCP Pinnacle

Angel Dust T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Method S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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GPS: 38.727, -106.769 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,541 total · 14/month
Shared By: aaron voreis on Dec 30, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Across the road from Rosy Lane Campground look up. You will see an obvious pinnacle with a 165ft 5.9 splitter up the center that mirrors the Rosy Lane buttress.

Climbs from left to right are:

11+ Ecstacy (5.7R start) bolts and 1 #0.5 Camalot. 1 60m.
9+ PCP crack (5.9+ to the ledge and 10c R to the summit. Trad, 2 60m.
11 Free Base Face (crack start to bolted roof) long pitch. Mixed, 2 60m.
11 Angel Dust Arete (shares start w/ FBF then to arete). Mixed, 2 60m.

All of these routes are very high quality, sustained pitches.

Getting There

Across the road from the Rosy Lane Campground. Park on right side pullout not in the campground.

2 Total Climbs

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The tower is indeed called PCP pinnacle, but the route in the picture is actually called "Angel Dust". John Rosholt and I put up this route in the later half of the Seventies. I would consider this a must do Taylor Canyon route of high quality. Just remember the routes on the east side of the Taylor River are invariably looser than the climbs on the west side. So be careful out there. Jan 17, 2004

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