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Routes in Parking Lot Wall

Billy Shears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bourbon Street T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cake Walk T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Inner Space T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jackal, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oh Mama Mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whiskey Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiskey Dick T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zig Zag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Barlow & Dawson. FFA: Pulaski
Page Views: 3,699 total, 31/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Apr 7, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Whiskey Crack is an absolute classic and one of the original Taylor Canyon testpieces. In my day, if you could lead Whiskey Crack, you had arrived.

The climbing of crux pitch involves steep technical face climbing and thin crack work over small wired pro. The tendency is to try to snug into the v groove for security, but the key is to stay on the outside. This is a stellar route.

Location

First Buttress Main Wall (Parking lot wall).
Between the Sun Deck and The Big Roof lies a Straight as an arrow thin crack in a shallow grove. This is the crux pitch of Whiskey Crack.

Protection

Wired nuts provide good but sometimes difficult to get protection.
Jon Oulton
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Jon Oulton   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
For what it's worth, both pitches can be done as a single pitch with a 70m rope. Rope drag wasn't too bad with appropriate sling use. I brought 4 double-length slings and one single-length,. There was about 20 feet of rope left at the top, so the whole thing (both pitches) must be ~220 feet (65m).

Awesome route! Aug 8, 2017
Jamie Estep
Crested Butte, CO
 
Jamie Estep   Crested Butte, CO
 
@Jon Oulton

It might be possible, but I think rope drag would be a real problem. Aug 4, 2017
Jon Oulton
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Jon Oulton   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Does anyone know if the two pitches can be linked with a 70m rope? Aug 3, 2017
The name for this route comes from a bet. Kenny Marx told Tom Pulaski "If you free it, I'll buy you a bottle of whiskey". Tom did and the rest is hic history. Dec 7, 2011
morkel
Fort Collins, CO
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
Hey thanks, the partner is very reliable. This route is one of those leads that take a little extra time, it seemed anyway. Top notch. Jun 9, 2009
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.10+
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.10+
Morkel, Great shots! "past the slightly sketchy crux", I'll say! Your partner looks much more relaxed than I ever was on that thing. Jun 5, 2009
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.10+
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.10+
Thanks Phil!!!! Apr 7, 2008