Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Routes in Parking Lot Wall
|Billy Shears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Bourbon Street T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Cake Walk T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X|
|Inner Space T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Jackal, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Oh Mama Mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Whiskey Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Whiskey Dick T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Zig Zag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,348 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||phil broscovak on Jan 27, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionBilly Shears is actually a ground to summit link up of three classic Taylor Canyon standards.
P1. The 1st pitch is the beautiful and very hard 5.10 offwidth swim fest known as "Hurtin' fer Certain". Start as for "Tourist Attraction" but instead of traversing left towards the easy dihedral, go straight up the ominous overhanging wide crack. Get good reliable pro in early as you may not find it easy to stop and get gear higher up. P.1 ends at the leisurely "Sun Deck".
P.2 is the route known as "Jackal" This enjoyable 5.7 pitch is the obvious ski track cracks on the left end of the 1st buttress. Start off of the "Sun Deck" in the crack on the left. The angle progressively steepens until an unusual overhang is encountered. Turn the overhang on the right and continue up the double cracks. At the top of the pitch, rather than head for the regular "Jackal" belay, look for a 15 foot traverse to the left. You are heading to the base of the wide crack that leads through the right side of the clean cut roof high up on the left skyline. Establish a belay at the base of what is known as "Inner Space".
P3. Awkward 5.9 wide crack climbing leads to a spectacular and airy 5.10- roof. Continue up to a nice ledge then up a short but sweet little final crack on the right.
Descend by scrambling up to the top of the 1st buttress then down climbing carefully into the gully on the backside. This gully will lead you left and back down to the parking area. This is really a fun route.