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Routes in The Upper Wall

Aphrodite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Gash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Christine's Dream T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cig Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corky's Rumpet T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dunn's Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gymnastics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hearted T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kathy's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Maria's Farewell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sasafrass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Singapore Sling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Phil Broscovak, Kathy Zaiser, 1980s
Page Views: 239 total, 1/month
Shared By: Kirk Woerner on May 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

On the right side of the first buttress, almost to the end, is a beautiful, right-facing dihedral that starts about 30 feet from the ground.

Belay from a ledge you can scramble up to, then begin the perfect finger crack dihedral with good gear for about 20 feet. Pull up and over to the left. You'll be faced with a run-out face (15 feet??) which accepts small dicey gear. I gave it an "s" only because of this part. The gear is hard to make good. Balance up to a weakness in the blocky roof. If memory serves, it's not too hard from here with good, bigger gear (hand-sized)....

Protection

Nuts and small cams for the corner, tiny stuff for the face, and bigger (hand-sized?) pieces for the last easier roof.

Photos

Jay M  
Don't let the R rating scare you away. It takes great gear and is a fantastic lead. A 0.3 c4 or something equivalent will help in the dihedral. Dec 18, 2016
matthew
Gunnison, Colorado
 
matthew   Gunnison, Colorado
 
Lead this yesterday and it was great. I didn't notice a whole lot of spots for placement on the face but the climb was all there and didn't seem that bad. All I can say is FUN. Apr 21, 2014
aaron voreis
  5.10a
aaron voreis  
  5.10a
Do not hesitate to lead this route. It definately does not warrant an R rating as the face climbing section can be sewn up with good tcus and med-small nuts. Sep 15, 2005
HI Kirk. Yes, I believe the first ascent was Kathy Zaiser and myself in the early to mid-eighties. Like Maria's Farewell, this was a route put up as a going away present. Jun 23, 2005