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Routes in Left Hand

Air Conditioner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fine Whine S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Hand Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Question of Balance T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,609 total, 15/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Oct 2, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Question of Balance is a very appropriately named route that goes up the obvious rightward angling crack system on the beautiful smooth slab to the right of the prominent Air Conditioner corner. This is a fantastic climb offering steep (thankfully just under vertical) relentlessly thin crack and face climbing from start to finish. Question of Balance is most often top roped but it's real greatness is as a test piece trad lead. The route gets harder each move that you work up. The gear while sometimes needing to be worked is good all the way up to the runout crux moves which are safe but your feet will be above your last gear while you are pulling the last hardest moves. There are two variations to the crux final moves The left variation is slightly easier but both will keep you on your toes. The climb ends at a narrow ledge with chains that can be backed up with trad gear if desired.

Protection

For the most part small to mid sized wired nuts, TCUs, and RPs. Chains on the ledge at top are accessible by tricky 3rd class to set up top rope.

Photos

Slade
Gunnison
Slade   Gunnison
Great climb!! The direct finish is bouldery but good. Apr 5, 2013
Kyle Judson
Colorado
 
Kyle Judson   Colorado
 
Sporty finish. Super fun. Jul 18, 2011
Jamie Estep
Crested Butte, CO
 
Jamie Estep   Crested Butte, CO
 
I've always found this hard to protect, but I spend most of my time on sport routes. Doing the crux direct adds about a full grade to the climb. Easy out - 5.10d, direct - 5.11c'ish... Sustained 5.9 - 5.10b climbing to the crux. Feb 23, 2011
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I was once interrogated by the Crested Butte sheriff while doing this climb. No problem for me as I was belaying. Chuck Grossman had to answer questons while grappling with the crux. He finished up with us and Chuck fired the rest of the climb. Classic. As it turns out someone had broken into the outdoor shop in the Butte and had made off with all the rock gear. The sheriff was at Taylor Canyon for three days straight trying to find the culprit. Nov 5, 2007
Stephanovich
Boulder, CO
  5.11
Stephanovich   Boulder, CO
  5.11
Philo- lookin' good in them there photos of ya'- very balanced. As for myself I remember messing up the sequence @ the crux and having to lung for the ledge right below the anchors. call me jumpy, if you will- it was a favorite OS of mine, as well as "needs a bolt", keep crankin' partner. Aug 1, 2007
When doing the left variation (5.10+), I recall a green Alien fitting in a little slot right in the middle and up high. This gives some peace of mind for the final moves. Sep 27, 2004
aaron voreis
  5.10d
aaron voreis  
  5.10d
Along with double cams from #0.1 Camalot (black Alien) to #0.4 (yellow Camalot), a red Alien and a few small to med nuts you will find a #4 Friend or #3.5 Camalot to be surprisingly useful.

cheers, aaron Mar 11, 2004