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Routes in The Upper Wall

Aphrodite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Gash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Christine's Dream T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cig Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corky's Rumpet T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dunn's Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gymnastics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hearted T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kathy's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Maria's Farewell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sasafrass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Singapore Sling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: John Rosholt in 1975
Page Views: 772 total · 4/month
Shared By: aaron voreis on Aug 12, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

You'll find this gem of a splitter located high up on the left side of the first buttress on the north-facing wall of an obvious, right-facing corner. Scramble up to the base of the route and climb a weird move off the ground towards the corner. Climb 5.8 stemming/jamming to a sloping ledge. Continue on stellar face climbing until you are at the base of the splitter. Enjoy the rest! This route can also be split into two pitches by belaying at the sloping ledge.

Descent: Double rope rap off three cold shuts on the prow (Cigarette .11c) climber's left of the splitter.

Protection

Green Alien to #3 Camalot w/extra #0.75 and #1. Nuts. Draws and slings.

Photos

....[FA] No springs or sticky shoes either. Aug 18, 2004
aaron voreis
Edina, MN
 
aaron voreis   Edina, MN
 
It is much more enjoyable to finish the route to the left and belay from 3 coldshuts instead of bailing into the chimney on the right. Sep 20, 2004
Originally the route finished up the slab half way between the bail-out into Dunn's to the right and the moves out left to the bolts. This was a really excellent and spicy way to top out. I just did this route a month or two ago and we went left to the bolts. Very nice but no where near as edgy as going straight up to the big boulder. All in all, no matter which way you top out this is a fabulous climb! Sep 21, 2004
What a fun little pitch. I've done all three exits. Right into Dunn's the first time I did it with nuts and tri-cams, I think it was my first 5.10 lead. Traversing left to the bolts when they were put in later on (I got cams by then) and up the slab after hearing that was the original line. and up the slab is definitely the crux of the route. Highly recommend this finish over the others. Jul 29, 2005
Stellar route! The crack looks bigger than it is, definitely bring some 0.75s for the crux section. Sep 4, 2016

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