Type: Trad, 1800 ft (545 m), 13 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jimmy Dunn
Page Views: 18,871 total · 97/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Sep 21, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I looked on this route for beta and didn't find any so figured it needed to be contributed. I have heard this route described as "Astroman's ugly cousin," "harder than Astroman," and "absolutely classic." I have no problem ignoring difficult route-finding, loose rock, lichen, munge, prickly cacti, and bird shit to call this route a total classic. It rules! For its position, sustained nature, and high volume of quality pitches, not to mention its size, this route lives up to classic status. However, I don't think it's as hard as Astroman, and don't come expecting it's flawless cracks.

Consult the Williams topo and use this info as a supplement. Belays as marked on the topo are not always obvious on the route (e.g. no fixed slings or gear). Likewise, the topo pitch lengths are not proportionate and thus may lead to some confusion. My suggested pitch lengths are approximate and as close as I can remember.

P1. Wide through a roof into a large, right-facing corner (150 feet). Link this into 2 with a 70m cord.

P2. Climb a short pitch of .10- continuing up the corner.

P3. Ascends a long, 5.7, choss gully around the corner to the right.

P4. From the ledge at the top of the gully, climb up face holds and into the rightmost and hopefully cleanest corner above you. This is where the topo gets confusing as it shows climbing in an actual corner. If in doubt, just climb up, always being aware of the corners you're aiming for in about 3-4 pitches. I think trying to find the rock with the least lichen is handy as well. I never noticed bolts like the topo suggests. End at really old tat on a small stance/ledge(100ft?)

P5. Head straight up the corner above 11b and place small aliens and RPs for gear as you traverse thin corners and ramps to the left. This bit is clean and fairly obvious. I linked this with 4 and belayed on top of the marked pillar on the topo, a very comfortable stop. Stay right in the corner above, don't wander too far out right like we did (160 feet?).

P6. Climb up to a bulge, marked, and lieback and kneebar up it, then follow the bushy cracks above till the bolt can be spotted on the traverse out right (100 feet?) This can be linked easily with the next traverse.

P7. The route is clean and obvious from here on out. Do a slabby/face traverse out right with a fixed nut and a crafty Alien or two for pro and climb up the thin crack to the bottom of the flare (60 feet).

P8. This is not really an offwidth, more of just a flaring corner where straight up jamming and chimneying are used. The majority of it has a perfect hand crack in the back. The crux is at the top with interesting stemming moves to reach a bolt and belay out left on the arete. Don't be afraid of this pitch, in the valley it would be 5.9, and its well protected with smaller gear (100 feet).

P9. This is the best pitch of the climb, the enduro corner. It is easier than it looks from below but packs a large pump. You get some great liebacking through #4, then #3.5 to #3 Camalots lead to a stem rest halfway up. Great liebacking or handjamming continue on and when the crack really begins to arch it gets much easier, finally ending in green Camalot size (120 feet) 5.11c.

P10. Technical crux I suppose. Boulder problem with a bolt right off the belay leads to a long leftward traverse to a huge ledge (5.11c, 40 feet).

P11. Off the upper tier of the ledge head up a pegmatite groove. The climbing is fun and challenging, and doesn't offer a ton of pro. The topo indicates a chimney of sorts and this is wrong. Its more of a groove that you face climb. Also, the bolt and belay are not really located on top of any sort of pillar. Where the topo says no! should be a huge 5 inch offwidth that doesn't look appealing to climb, but due to confusion I tried anyway. Don't do this, just belay at the bolt (120 feet).

P12. The topo doesn't bother rating the face traverse that begins this pitch, but it is at least 5.11 slab/face and you would fall onto the shitty belay bolt. Based on the tat on the bolt, I think many people penji here and this may not be a bad idea. Continue up the cracks above which are really good (160 feet).

P13. This is the womb fight. It is unrateable, horizontal offwidthing. Like Thank God Ledge's evil twin, this is no fun at all (100 feet).

P14. Go easily to the top (40 feet).

Protection

RP's, Stoppers, Double set of Aliens blue thru red, Double set of Camalots .75-3, one 3.5, one 4, runners and draws of course. Recommended 70m rope for longer pitches but 60m will work. Webbing to rap off of if you anticipate bailing(not recommended)

Photos