Avg: 3.8 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Seth Shaw and Tim Wagner|
|Page Views:||3,886 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Levin on Feb 24, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Early morning and mid-to-late afternoon shade. Plan on 4-6 hours round-trip from the rim. Fixed and bombproof belay (i.e. rappel) anchors are not in place.
Descend the Cruise Gully to immediately past the second rappel. Third class a short, grassy R-facing corner to a ledge system below three obvious crack lines (the Leisure Climb/Mid-Summer's Night Dream/Musical Partners cluster), then head up and left (short stretch of 5th class) to a higher ledge. Belay left along this before obvious boulders, and just below some bolts.
P1. Scratch past 2 bolts (5.11-) to a right-facing corner (runout but moderate climbing in corner), clip a third bolt and a fixed head, and mantle into the land of no-return. Now slither across the wall right, past 2 more bolts and an ambiguous crux section of minimalist edging. Prance straight up and belay at a small stance, with gear for anchors. Long runners are necessary to reduce rope drag on this weaving pitch. This is classic and challenging face climbing.
P2. Climb to a small overlap (fixed pin, 5.10+/5.11-), then up and left. Continue up (avoid the tendency to climb off right) to belay at a stance with a bolt. This is nice climbing and a long pitch. Mild fuzziness.
P3. Climb runout 5.10, then blast through two peg bands (more scary 5.10) to a small hanging stance with slightly funky gear anchor. This is a classic pitch of pure, unadulterated Black Canyon climbing.
P4. Punch up a section of strenuous, runout 5.10 through an overlap and into some hanging corners. Now finesse your way through the roof above (5.11 but contrived and kind of a pile) or step right near a big hanging block, then back up and left.
P5. Exit to the terrace, then walk and scramble off left.