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Routes in North Chasm View Wall

827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
A Midsummer's Night Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air Guitar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Air Jordan T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Air Voyage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apparition, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Black Penny A3 R
Black Sheep, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bloodsport T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colorado Welcome Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cruise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dylan Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Free Nose, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goss-Logan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ R
Highway 61 Revisited T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Journey Home T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kachina Wings T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leisure Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Movable Stoned Voyage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moveable Feast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Partners T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Qualgeist T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Scenic Cruise, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stoned Oven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Straight Out Da Projects T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Trilogy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Twisted T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Walk of Shame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3 X
White Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
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Type: Trad, 1500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve Hong & Ed Webster, 1977
Page Views: 1,987 total · 30/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Apr 2, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

INTRODUCTION

This was the second all free route on North Chasm View, after The Cruise. Unlike The Cruise, it was also a new route; reported as 5.10+ in Climbing #41.

I like to think of the Moveable Feast as the easiest route on North Chasm View Wall. For a few pitches, you're out there, hangin' with the big boys. The rock and pro are great. Then it's suddenly over and you're groveling up a chimney to the camp.

The quality of the middle section, the miraculous "Corner Escape Pitch", is as good as any 5.11 or 5.12 gnarler. After leaving the safety of the last hand-jam in the corner and stepping out onto the wall, the exposure is huge.

LOCATION & APPROACH

The route is on the far left side of Chasm View Wall (downstream, west facing end).

First, descend SOB Gully.

Next, at about 200 feet elevation above the river, climb out left to the top of a buttress. This buttress prevents hiking upstream at river level.

After the short climb, look for a rap station that accesses the gully on the upstream side of the buttress. Rappel into the poison ivy, tick, and talus filled gully. Pull the rope. Now you are committed. Finally, head up the new gully to the approach pitches.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

Begin with a couple easy pitches up bushy ledges and small corners to the base of the prominent right facing dihedral. Variations are possible and there are several ledges to set belays on. The harder climbing begins off a nice ledge at the base of the main corner.

Above is the "Corner Escape Pitch". On the left side of the corner, a large ledge is passed on the way to the crux. When the hand jams get more difficult, dodge right onto the exposed wall. A hidden flake crack must be reached from a hand jam. Then a little more traversing gains a new crack system that leads to the exit gully/chimney. Belay where the traversing ends below the new crack (not so comfortable).

From this stance, two pitches up an obvious crack end near the exit gully. The crack is lined with pegmatite and there is a challenging bulge to pass.

From here climbers have a choice. Some will finish on upper Stoned Oven. Others will go up the obvious exit chimney/gully. A tough 5.8 chimney is found partway up. Then ledges are easily traversed left to a final crack/grovel up to the trees at the top.

A short hike up the hillside ends at the campground.

PROTECTION

A rope, a rack, and the shirt on your back. Ed and Bryan hauled a full load because the route looked so big, thus they named it: "The Movable Feast". They easily got it done in a day, even hauling.

I don't give detailed gear advice because most of my friends just give it back to me and bring their own racks.

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Has anyone gone the .11 way past the bolts??? I did and ended up bailing to the other traverse. It seemed to go to a hard, 20', vertical, stem corner (12?) or a handholdless traverse right to a corner that if you fell you would swing huge! Bueller? Jul 10, 2014
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.10
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.10
The exit chimney is an "adventure". Do not expect for it to be a gully scramble to the rim. Be prepared to climb some scary choss. It's fun though. Apr 16, 2017

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