Avg: 3.4 from 16 votes
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Robert Warren,Jeff Crystal,Steve Johnson. F.F.A. Robert Warren, Jim Nigro|
|Page Views:||4,193 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||Jay 1975 on Jun 8, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionP1 - this is nice ballsy run-out face climbing to the right onto the arete for a .11+ crux. Sweet! Belay on a face under an obvious splitter crack, 130'.
P2 - climb splitter for about 120', belay on ledge with boulder on it, .11+.
P3 - climb .10 hands for 120' to a crack switch, belay on arete.
P4 - this is the crux! Climb up and through vertical to slightly overhanging 30' peg crack, .12a crux is at the bolt. Then turn into the right crack system of Kachina Wings, 150'.
P5 - climb up big, right-facing corner system for about 170'. The .10 crux is a o.w. layback about 10' over the gear if any...not that tough. Belay under roof or climb the final 40' of easy 5.7-.8 to the terrace. Traverse terrace to the overlook. Drink beers!
This is the best crack route I have tried thus far, but it is shorter than "Stoned Oven"!!! This is sustained at the grade!