Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North Chasm View Wall

827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
A Midsummer's Night Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air Guitar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Air Voyage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apparition, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Black Penny A3 R
Black Sheep, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bloodsport T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colorado Welcome Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cruise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dylan Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Free Nose, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goss-Logan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ R
Highway 61 Revisited T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Journey Home T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kachina Wings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leisure Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Movable Stoned Voyage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moveable Feast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Partners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Qualgeist T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Scenic Cruise, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stoned Oven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Straight Out Da Projects T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Trilogy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Twisted T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Walk of Shame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3 X
White Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Robert Warren,Jeff Crystal,Steve Johnson. F.F.A. Robert Warren, Jim Nigro
Page Views: 4,142 total, 40/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Jun 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1 - this is nice ballsy run-out face climbing to the right onto the arete for a .11+ crux. Sweet! Belay on a face under an obvious splitter crack, 130'.

P2 - climb splitter for about 120', belay on ledge with boulder on it, .11+.

P3 - climb .10 hands for 120' to a crack switch, belay on arete.

P4 - this is the crux! Climb up and through vertical to slightly overhanging 30' peg crack, .12a crux is at the bolt. Then turn into the right crack system of Kachina Wings, 150'.

P5 - climb up big, right-facing corner system for about 170'. The .10 crux is a o.w. layback about 10' over the gear if any...not that tough. Belay under roof or climb the final 40' of easy 5.7-.8 to the terrace. Traverse terrace to the overlook. Drink beers!

This is the best crack route I have tried thus far, but it is shorter than "Stoned Oven"!!! This is sustained at the grade!

Location

Use the same approach of easy climbing or free solo to ledge of Journey Home. Look for fixed nut on wall to the right of Journey and bolts. You must surmount a 5' boulder at the start.

Protection

Triple or quadruple fingers, double hands, one #4 cam, nuts, 8-10 runners and 4 draws. 70m rope.

Photos

MauryB
Boulder, CO
 
MauryB   Boulder, CO
 
Thought I was doing the variation finish Kalous describes: climbed about 40 feet up the big corner, then traversed left on some face holds/cracked up rock, and pulled back around the arete. Then followed an indistinct and bushy crack system straight up until it turned into a proper, thin hands to baggy fingers splitter - flaky, overhanging, and left-leaning for the last 15 feet and definitely 11+. Ended on a big ledge. Anyone know what this is? Oct 15, 2016
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12a R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12a R
Those fixed heads are great! Haha. Sep 26, 2016
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12a R
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12a R
Quadruple fingers is WAY overkill for this route. A competent party could easily climb it with a double set of cams from #0.3 to #3, a set of stopper and RPs, one each of black/blue Aliens, and a #4. An extra #0.4 & #0.5 might be nice to have for building anchors. Sep 21, 2016
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
 
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
 
In case you didn't know, when a climb has a "R" in the grade. It doesn't mean that it is in that hardest graded pitch, but sometimes it is! May 1, 2015
Amazing route! We thought the R-rating was a sandbag. 5.12 R looks daunting on print. The run out moves seemed no harder than 5.10a. Seems like a troublesome trend with R-ratings leaving climbers misinformed. May 1, 2015
D-Storm
  5.11d R
D-Storm  
  5.11d R
+1 for Chris Kalous' beta on finishing left. That little 5.10 crack to the ledge is really good. The topo Chris posted is also impressively accurate, right down to the bush drawn above the crux on pitch 4. As for my 11d rating, this was the first "5.12" I've done in the Black, so I don't have much to compare this one to, but I expected the grade to feel harder. Time will tell. May 26, 2014
When Jeff Cristol and I joined Robert Warren on this route, Robert had already led the first pitch, solo! Aug 4, 2013
Bryan Gilmore
New England
  5.12a R
Bryan Gilmore   New England
  5.12a R
The left-angling 5.10 crack instead of the OW is really cool and deposits you on a great belay ledge. Thanks, CK, for the recommendation. I don't know about you, but I don't think the heads on P1 would hold an (insert Cartman's voice here) Ethi-nopian. May 15, 2012
You can up the quality of the top-out by bypassing Katchina Wing's final offwidth on a left leaning 5.10+ hand finger crack (see topo). This puts you near the top of Journey home and all but the last hundred feet to the exit ramp remain pretty clean. Sep 15, 2009
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.12- R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12- R
Yep, sick route for sure. This was my first trip to the Black! Climbed it with Jay on second day down there. Great sustained climbing the entire way. Better have your head screwed on right for the first pitch. Jay sent it in style! Nice one dude. Jun 9, 2009