Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Robert Warren,Jeff Crystal,Steve Johnson. F.F.A. Robert Warren, Jim Nigro
Page Views: 4,442 total · 37/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Jun 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


P1 - this is nice ballsy run-out face climbing to the right onto the arete for a .11+ crux. Sweet! Belay on a face under an obvious splitter crack, 130'.

P2 - climb splitter for about 120', belay on ledge with boulder on it, .11+.

P3 - climb .10 hands for 120' to a crack switch, belay on arete.

P4 - this is the crux! Climb up and through vertical to slightly overhanging 30' peg crack, .12a crux is at the bolt. Then turn into the right crack system of Kachina Wings, 150'.

P5 - climb up big, right-facing corner system for about 170'. The .10 crux is a o.w. layback about 10' over the gear if any...not that tough. Belay under roof or climb the final 40' of easy 5.7-.8 to the terrace. Traverse terrace to the overlook. Drink beers!

This is the best crack route I have tried thus far, but it is shorter than "Stoned Oven"!!! This is sustained at the grade!


Use the same approach of easy climbing or free solo to ledge of Journey Home. Look for fixed nut on wall to the right of Journey and bolts. You must surmount a 5' boulder at the start.


Triple or quadruple fingers, double hands, one #4 cam, nuts, 8-10 runners and 4 draws. 70m rope.


Rob Kepley
  5.12- R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12- R
Yep, sick route for sure. This was my first trip to the Black! Climbed it with Jay on second day down there. Great sustained climbing the entire way. Better have your head screwed on right for the first pitch. Jay sent it in style! Nice one dude. Jun 9, 2009
You can up the quality of the top-out by bypassing Katchina Wing's final offwidth on a left leaning 5.10+ hand finger crack (see topo). This puts you near the top of Journey home and all but the last hundred feet to the exit ramp remain pretty clean. Sep 15, 2009
Bryan Gilmore
Bryan Gilmore   FLG, AZ
The left-angling 5.10 crack instead of the OW is really cool and deposits you on a great belay ledge. Thanks, CK, for the recommendation. I don't know about you, but I don't think the heads on P1 would hold an (insert Cartman's voice here) Ethi-nopian. May 15, 2012
When Jeff Cristol and I joined Robert Warren on this route, Robert had already led the first pitch, solo! Aug 4, 2013
  5.11d R
  5.11d R
+1 for Chris Kalous' beta on finishing left. That little 5.10 crack to the ledge is really good. The topo Chris posted is also impressively accurate, right down to the bush drawn above the crux on pitch 4. As for my 11d rating, this was the first "5.12" I've done in the Black, so I don't have much to compare this one to, but I expected the grade to feel harder. Time will tell. May 26, 2014
Amazing route! We thought the R-rating was a sandbag. 5.12 R looks daunting on print. The run out moves seemed no harder than 5.10a. Seems like a troublesome trend with R-ratings leaving climbers misinformed. May 1, 2015
Jay 1975
Bonedale, CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale, CO
In case you didn't know, when a climb has a "R" in the grade. It doesn't mean that it is in that hardest graded pitch, but sometimes it is! May 1, 2015
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12a R
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12a R
Quadruple fingers is WAY overkill for this route. A competent party could easily climb it with a double set of cams from #0.3 to #3, a set of stopper and RPs, one each of black/blue Aliens, and a #4. An extra #0.4 & #0.5 might be nice to have for building anchors. Sep 21, 2016
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12a R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12a R
Those fixed heads are great! Haha. Sep 26, 2016
Boulder, CO
MauryB   Boulder, CO
Thought I was doing the variation finish Kalous describes: climbed about 40 feet up the big corner, then traversed left on some face holds/cracked up rock, and pulled back around the arete. Then followed an indistinct and bushy crack system straight up until it turned into a proper, thin hands to baggy fingers splitter - flaky, overhanging, and left-leaning for the last 15 feet and definitely 11+. Ended on a big ledge. Anyone know what this is? Oct 15, 2016